Chevy High Performance Magazine Forums

Chevy High Performance Magazine Forumshttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.comJoin the Chevy Forum at Chevy High Performance Magazine to discuss your favorite chevrolet car, chevy performance tips, auto shows, and more.http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8188404/general-chevy-technical-discussion/chevy-mechanical-fuel-pumps-install-tip/index.htmlMon, 22 Mar 2010 04:03:58 -0700Chevy mechanical fuel pumps install tip...
well alrightey then, the dipstick, I thought the bolt in the hole to lock the rod was easy enough. But that would be a little easier, thanks for the tip.

]]><![CDATA[Chevy mechanical fuel pumps install tip...]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8188404/general-chevy-technical-discussion/chevy-mechanical-fuel-pumps-install-tiphttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8188032/car-engine/jetting-and-stagger-jetting/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 23:03:43 -0700Jetting and Stagger Jetting
+1 On the 70/80 jetting,,, that is about minimum for a 750/780 CFM carb. Your 2818 was originally a 600 CFM single inlet carb with 64/72 jetting. The reason you can't go smaller in jetting is because your air/fuel ratio would be upset with leaner jets. You may find the 750 to be a bit on the large side for good throttle response under load. Cross jetting increases jet size by about two numbers on cylinders 5 and 7 because 7 fires right after 5 and the air/fuel charge is deminished. number 2 cylinder also wants to be fattened up,,, but remember that on a dual plane manifold, the left side feeds the right bank and the right side feeds the left. :)

]]><![CDATA[Jetting and Stagger Jetting]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8188032/car-engine/jetting-and-stagger-jettinghttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111956/general-chevy-technical-discussion/1966-c-10-with-383-starter-skipping-teeth/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 21:03:54 -07001966 c-10 with 383 starter skipping teeth
i have a 383 externally balanced with a 400 flexplate and brand new starter for a small block 400 and the stock turbo 350 tranny and everytime i go to start it the starter skips teeth and we have done everything any ideas?

]]><![CDATA[1966 c-10 with 383 starter skipping teeth]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111956/general-chevy-technical-discussion/1966-c-10-with-383-starter-skipping-teethhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8187756/general-chevy-discussion/timing-gear/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 20:03:05 -0700timing gear
OH OH,,, Idler gears are only on gear drives,,, What kind of gear set have you got there? Need more info :)

]]><![CDATA[timing gear]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8187756/general-chevy-discussion/timing-gearhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8187750/general-chevy-technical-discussion/vapor-lock-problem/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 20:03:43 -0700Vapor lock problem?
When a mechanical fuel pump vapor locks,,, the internal override makes the pump stop pumping altogether, until fuel pressure drops to allow more fuel delivery. Vapor locked pumps don't funtion intermittenly as you described,,, they simply stop until everything cools down. The problem sounds like fuel percolating and possibly a low fuel level. The Junkman has a good point with a spacer to isolate heat. :)

]]><![CDATA[Vapor lock problem?]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8187750/general-chevy-technical-discussion/vapor-lock-problemhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132669/car-engine/sbc-smog-motor-rebuild-looking-for-torque/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 18:03:37 -0700SBC SMOG MOTOR REBUILD LOOKING FOR TORQUE
I have a '76 SBC 350 .030 over with flat-top 4 valve relief federal pistons that I am rebuilding/refreshing for my ’76 CJ-5. The heads off this engine are 388's with 172/150 valves and 74cc combustion chambers. I have a few head options and need some advice. I am looking for good low end torque and respectful horsepower. My driveline plans include the SBC 350 engine, SM-420 or 465 transmission, Dana 20 or 300 transfer-case and the stock axels with 3.54 gears. What set of heads would you guys use for good low end torque? 388 smog heads with 172/150 valves and 74cc combustion chambers These are in my garage and only need to be to be refreshed. 920 smog heads with 194/150 valves and 74cc combustion chambers These have been rebuilt and are for sale for $100. SBC 305 heads with 185/150 valves and 60cc combustion chambers These are in my garage but will need a complete rebuild. Let me know what you guys think…

]]><![CDATA[SBC SMOG MOTOR REBUILD LOOKING FOR TORQUE]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132669/car-engine/sbc-smog-motor-rebuild-looking-for-torquehttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132726/car-engine/odd-hei-problem/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 17:03:28 -0700Odd HEI problem
i would like you to OHM the spark plug wires...... set the ohm meter to 200K ohms... the meter with that setting if the wires are good.. the number displayed should be smaller than the length of the wire in inches... so a 24 inch wire should read less than 24... probably about 12 to 14... there HAS to be silicone dielectric grease under the module... the module makes a LOT of heat switching the coil on and off... without this silicone dielectric tune up grease.. the module will overheat and fail.... and will fail when it gets hot.. it cannot be reused for other than a quick test once it has failed do to thermal effects... how wide is your spark plug gap?????? .035, .045, .055... more... now.. in under the coil cover in the cap.... first part in is the ground strap that fits under the coil.... connects to the center terminal of the 3 wire harness... without this... the coil frame and windings have no connection to ground... really dangerous HIGH voltages can build up in the coil frame when this is left out.. some people have reported shot gun loud noises from under the hood... this is from the coil discharging like a lightning from clouds.. sometimes it will blow the coil primary wires off and most of the time blow the module electronics.. the next part in the cap.. the center terminal contact... then the rubber gasket... then the coil... why am i pointing you at these things... if it takes HIGHER voltage to fire the plugs.. it will build more heat in the distributer.. i am also taking that you have a conventional fan and fan clutch... is there any reason that the airflow around the distributer might be blocked... you can also do a voltage drop test... with your digital volt meter set to 20 volts DC... measure from the battery negative post to the engine block....with the engine running and the head lights on.. if the ground circuit is good.. you should have less than 0.02 volts... post what you get... next measure from the battery negative to the body... again.. with the engine running and the head lights on.. you should also have less than 0.02 volts.. post what you get... now... measure from the positive battery post to the negative battery post.. with the engine running.. you should get over 14.1 volts.. but less than 14.8... post what you get... you can also measure from the positive battery post to the output terminal on the back of the alternator with the engine running.... this is going to have more.. but it should be less than 0.5 volts.. thats half a volt... that is actually too much. why are we measuring the same side .... if there is resistance in the circuit... when a load is going through the circuit.. you can measure the difference in voltage.. this is the most accurate way to find problems.. it takes less than 2 minutes to do this test...

]]><![CDATA[Odd HEI problem]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132726/car-engine/odd-hei-problemhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132651/general-chevy-technical-discussion/97-vortec-350-knock/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 16:03:19 -070097 vortec 350 knock
a few things... look closely at the intake manifold gaskets... see if they have already been changed. if not.. now is the time.. they leak /seep coolant at the 4 corners... examine the distributer for play in the shaft... if your distributer is a conventional small cap HEI... pull the rotor... see if the magnet that is riveted under the reluctor is cracked... if so,,, AZ has rebuilt distributers with a new style pickup and reluctor... i will have to look at the parts listing. to see which one you have.. examine the ignition coil... look for white dust spots close to the frame on the center winding .. this is high voltage leakage... if you have over 100K miles.. you really might want to throw in a new oil pump... while you have the pan off.... and a steel collar oil pump shaft... IS-55E is the number of earlier small blocks... when i run into broken or cracked flywheels... i double check that both alignment dowels are installed.. the converter just being loose is sometimes enough to break the flywheel..

]]><![CDATA[97 vortec 350 knock]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132651/general-chevy-technical-discussion/97-vortec-350-knockhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132552/general-discussion/gm-v-6s/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 15:03:11 -0700GM V-6'S
My stepson works on his bosses cyclone and typhoon all of the time. Not saying they break alot, they just see the drag strip more than a private road. He says the 4.3 is bette than the BUICK 3.8 so what is the truth? o which one is better, the 4.3 or the 3.8?

]]><![CDATA[GM V-6'S]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8132552/general-discussion/gm-v-6shttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111452/general-chevy-technical-discussion/vacumm-test-a-350-how/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 09:03:15 -0700vacumm test a 350 how
Hi what is the best way to vacuum test my carby :confused:

]]><![CDATA[vacumm test a 350 how]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111452/general-chevy-technical-discussion/vacumm-test-a-350-howhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8187057/general-discussion/vortec-casting-numbers/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 05:03:33 -0700Vortec casting numbers
Hey guys, Ive been looking for a set of Vortec heads on E-Bay for a 305 I have in the garage and I seem to remember reading somewhere that one of the casting numbers is less desirable for performance use. The numbers Ive been seeing are 060, 062, and 906. Does anyone know which one of these is the slug?

]]><![CDATA[Vortec casting numbers]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8187057/general-discussion/vortec-casting-numbershttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111347/chevy-nova/my-79-nova-build/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 04:03:53 -0700My 79 Nova build
Here is my 1979 Chevy Nova that I bought in March 2008 with a 10-year old restoration. Cosmetically it was a sound car when I got it. The interior needed a lot of work and it didn’t run. It has a 327 small block Chevy with a Borg Warner T-10 4 speed and a 3.73 posi rear. I am very sentimental when it comes to the 79 Nova specifically. My parents had one when I was a kid and I loved it so much they helped me buy one of my own as my first car when I was 16 in 1991. Every year my dad would take my brother and me to the Sloan Museum Car Show in Flint, MI and not once do I ever remember seeing a 79 Nova there. I told him I would be the first to enter one and I did enter this one June 2009. The 79 Novas we had back in 91 never made it to the show since they were our daily drivers (mechanically sound bondo-mobiles, ha, ha). Back then we didn’t have the money, time, tools, or really the knowledge to properly restore a vehicle. We lost dad to cancer June 2002 and mom to cancer March 2009. Dad never got to see or ride in this car, but Mom did before I started tearing it apart. I asked her what she thought of me rebuilding it in memory of dad and she gave me her tears of approval thus fueling my motivation to take on a project like I've never done before. Ironically the color scheme (white with black interior) matches what my wife and I picked for our wedding colors in June 2003, black & white with silver accents. With all that in mind and my wife and two teenage sons helping me build the car, it’s sort of morphed into a family tribute vehicle. Here is what the car looks like as of 9-24-09. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1FrontRight.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1FrontLeft.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1RearRight.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1RearLeft.jpg April 2008. First things first, I had to do some work with the help of my father-in-law to get the 327 up and running to include a major tune-up. New distributor, carburetor, starter, bell housing, and convert to a closed PCV system by plugging off the down draft tube and changing out the oil fill tube with twist on cap. I added new valve covers to accept a breather cap on the passenger side and a breather cap with a PCV valve on the drivers’ side. It runs smooth and doesn’t leave a smoke screen behind me anymore. I plumbed the heater core and wired the blower motor so I can have heat when cruising during the cooler days and defog the windshield. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Engine1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Engine1c.jpg May 6, 2009. I had to repair some rust in the center of the hood from the paint peeling because of a carburetor fire with the previous owner. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Hood1a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Hood1b.jpg May 13, 2009. The grill was busted up pretty bad on the passenger side so I found a used one on Ebay and painted it along with the headlight buckets black. The chrome was already shot and I like the blacked out look better anyway. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1Front-1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1Front.jpg May 14, 2009. I decide to tackle the trunk by grinding every square inch and using roll-on truck bed liner and replace the spare tire. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Trunk1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Trunk1a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Trunk2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Trunk2a.jpg June 10, 2009. Here’s just some of the attention to detail I’m putting into the car, one piece at a time. The wiper motor after some sanding, primer, paint and I trashed the old grommets and bought new ones. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/WiperMotor2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/WiperMotor2b.jpg June 30, 2009. I removed all of the interior and this what I found. You can see the results of the water coming in from the firewall and the kick panels. Luckily the floors didn’t rot all the way through and I didn’t have to do major reconstructive surgery. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards3.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards4.jpg July 7, 2009. Most of the interior panels were faded and some had white overspray on them. I repainted all of the interior panels with Duplicolor interior/vinyl spray paint and hand brushed the white striping. I replaced all of the weather stripping August 30, 2009. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/DoorLH1a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/DoorLH1b.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/DoorRH1a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/DoorRH1b.jpg July 27, 2009. Here are my interior floor boards after a whole lot of elbow grease grinding and some roll on truck bed liner. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards1a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards2a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards3a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FloorBoards4a.jpg August 5, 2009. The car didn’t come with an ash tray and since I don’t have plans of needing one in this car, why spend the money and time trying to find one right? So I tacked in some sheet metal and filled in the gaps, smoothed and painted it. The nasty looking heater box was removed and painted too. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Ashtray1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Ashtray1b.jpg August 7, 2009. Here is the new dash pad which was light blue until I sprayed it. I pulled the instrument panel and added some whiteface gauges which are nothing more than water slide decals, but they worked pretty good I think. This was an automatic so I had to cover up the PRNDL. The instrument bezel was also sprayed with the same paint as the rest of the interior but turned out a little lighter. Still looks good. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Instruments2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Instruments2a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Instruments5.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Instruments5a.jpg August 14, 2009. Got some new BFG Radial TAs. 255/60/15 rear and 215/70/15 front. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Left01.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1SideLeft.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Right01.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/1SideRight.jpg August 20, 2009. I pulled most of the front clip off to access the firewall better and trace where the water was leaking into the interior from. As you can see, I don’t have a garage so I have to rely on Mother Nature’s mercy in Michigan to get my work done. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FrontClip1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/FrontClip2.jpg August 30, 2009. This is when I actually swapped the oil fill tube and cap. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/OilFillTube1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/OilFillTube1b.jpg September 5, 2009. New wiring was a MUST! I figured with the interior out and the front body panels off why not do the wiring and fuse box while I have easy access. As I was removing all of the old wiring I found why I was having so many electrical issues. The 30-year old wiring was snapping like pretzels! It’s a GM 12-circuit kit by Painless that I ordered through Jegs and it was simple to install. Notice I didn’t say easy?! http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Fuseblock1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Fuseblock1a.jpg September 10, 2009. Here are some before and after pictures of the after market gauges. I replaced the volt and oil gauges just so all three would match and painted the chrome gauge pod black then a MUCH needed tachometer. Eventually the tachometer will be mounted on the custom center console that I haven’t built yet placing it in front of what used to be the ash tray. The tachometer bezel will also be painted to match. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Gauges1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Gauges1a.jpg September 20, 2009. As for the shifter, I bought the boot at Auto Zone and found that the chrome, although it looks nice, will blind you while driving when the sun hits it. So I painted it white to get rid of the glare and help break up some of the solid black interior. All black was looking too plain to me. The new curved shift lever makes reaching 3rd gear a lot easier. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Shifter1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Shifter1b.jpg January 23, 2010. There was nothing wrong with the old radiator except for being what I consider an eye sore for a restoration project. The new radiator is made by Champion Cooling and came with the dual electric fans. I also added some braided hose sleeves. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Radiator2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Radiator2a.jpg March 20, 2010. I took my transmission into Al’s Trans & Gear in Burton, MI for a complete gasket seal kit and output bearing. They inspected, cleaned and even repainted it for me all for a very reasonable price. http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Transmission1.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Transmission1a.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Transmission2.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu323/michaelwalshii/79%20Nova/Transmission2a.jpg

]]><![CDATA[My 79 Nova build]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111347/chevy-nova/my-79-nova-buildhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8131616/car-engine/43-cutting-out-at-2200-rpm/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 01:03:26 -07004.3 cutting out at 2200 rpm
did it test out ok during the test?

]]><![CDATA[4.3 cutting out at 2200 rpm]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8131616/car-engine/43-cutting-out-at-2200-rpmhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8186490/general-chevy-discussion/vacume-disaster/index.htmlSun, 21 Mar 2010 00:03:31 -0700vacume disaster
ouch ouch and OUCH.Q-jets are great carbs! Holley Spread bore's are IMHO the best but I can't go out and buy a 600 dollar or more carb.Please tell us which carb you want to use Q-jet or Holley and which Holley that is you have and we will be happy to help.

]]><![CDATA[vacume disaster]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8186490/general-chevy-discussion/vacume-disasterhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8131856/car-engine/82-swb-350-dies-when-you-hammer-into-it/index.htmlSat, 20 Mar 2010 22:03:58 -070082 swb 350 dies when you hammer into it
I just bought an 82 with a 350 in it. it has a lunati voodoo cam. hedman headers. bored .030 over and just had a valve job done. The carb on it is a edelbrock 1411(750cfm), and an edelbrock torker intake. it will start and idle fine, and when you gradually increase the gas its fine. but if you slam into it, it will die or backfire out of the carb. I need help, im new at this. Also does anyone have an idea of what kind of horsepower this setup would put out? Thanks

]]><![CDATA[82 swb 350 dies when you hammer into it]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8131856/car-engine/82-swb-350-dies-when-you-hammer-into-ithttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8186319/car-engine/q-jet-problem-hunting/index.htmlSat, 20 Mar 2010 21:03:29 -0700Q-Jet problem hunting
did you take a look at the front of the base plate.. thats the only angle you did not post.... to see what kind of plug in the hole to block adjustments to raise or lower the little metal tab???? you can see the pin in the middle of the power valve spring that sticks through the bottom of the main body rod hanger well... you really might want to measure the height of the little lever above the surface first... then with the carb together.. before you adjust anything... stick the rod end of a dial micrometer down the carb vent.. depress the primary metering rod holder.. and measure that... that is your starting point.. you can feel the spring loaded primary rod holder when you use a LIGHT weight tool down the vent tube... besides all the above.. how were the gaskets... were they worn out and crushed????? polish the pump piston bore with some really fine sand paper... make sure to wash out the passages... then test it with gas before you put the float and other top parts on... with your finger over the pump passage near the venturis you should be able to verify the pump is working perfectly... i have had to carefully remove the balls... use the end of the phillips screw driver and burnish the ball seats... then use a roll pin punch to lightly tap the OLD ball into the seat... this ruins the ball but makes a really nice seat... be sure to use the right ball... i have found the wrong ones driven in.. tight.. it does not take much to make a nice fresh seat.. and throw the used ball to the side.. it will have a dent on one side.. that will ruin your day if it gets used... you have probably got the whole thing back together and are doing snow angels/ donuts in the car as i type...

]]><![CDATA[Q-Jet problem hunting]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8186319/car-engine/q-jet-problem-huntinghttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111017/general-chevy-technical-discussion/can-i-get-some-advice-for-my-350/index.htmlSat, 20 Mar 2010 16:03:03 -0700can i get some advice for my 350
its .30 over...im putting a stock crank in it...scat rods...kb pistons flat top 2 valve relief...vortec heads...super victor intake...oh a trick flow .495/.510 lift and .308/.316 duration cam...and a holley 650 double pumper.... anybody got any guesses at what compression im lookin at and about how much hp and torque ill be gettin? i appreciate it!!!

]]><![CDATA[can i get some advice for my 350]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8111017/general-chevy-technical-discussion/can-i-get-some-advice-for-my-350http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8185989/auto-paint/basecoat/index.htmlSat, 20 Mar 2010 05:03:38 -0700Basecoat......
No the base coat will only have a very slight shine and when you apply the clear then it will have a high gloss shine.

]]><![CDATA[Basecoat......]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8185989/auto-paint/basecoathttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8110615/chevy-camaro/win-a-2010-camaro/index.htmlSat, 20 Mar 2010 04:03:03 -0700Win a 2010 Camaro
6 Days left to get your 2010 Camaro Raffle Tickets! Visit www.MyUnitedWay.org to get your ticket! Only 450 tickets sold so far and the drawing is on March 25!!!!!!!

]]><![CDATA[Win a 2010 Camaro]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8110615/chevy-camaro/win-a-2010-camarohttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8110495/swap-meet/gm-performance-lt4-hotcam/index.htmlSat, 20 Mar 2010 02:03:06 -0700GM Performance LT4 Hotcam
This cam is new. Only installed but never ran!! 175.00 shipped OBO. Thanks.

]]><![CDATA[GM Performance LT4 Hotcam]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8110495/swap-meet/gm-performance-lt4-hotcamhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8130749/general-discussion/camshaft-thrust-button/index.htmlFri, 19 Mar 2010 23:03:16 -0700camshaft thrust button
thrust button clearance should be .005-.008

]]><![CDATA[camshaft thrust button]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8130749/general-discussion/camshaft-thrust-buttonhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8185368/drivetrain/maybe-its-a-4760/index.htmlFri, 19 Mar 2010 22:03:31 -0700maybe its a 4760...
sorry i meant 4L60 so i have a transmission at my school that i believe to be a 4l60... it has a tv cable and only one electrical connector (round, 4 wire hookup). can anyone confirm or deny that im correct before i go and rebuild it? and if it is a 4L60, is it possible to have it operate correctly WITHOUT the electronics? its going into the same 71 chevelle as the rearend, so im really not looking to add any electronics (besides that *** is expensive)! any help would be greatly appreciated

]]><![CDATA[maybe its a 4760...]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8185368/drivetrain/maybe-its-a-4760http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8185104/general-discussion/700r4-2nd-to-3rd-scare/index.htmlFri, 19 Mar 2010 19:03:08 -0700700r4 2nd to 3rd scare
Hello gyes hows it going? When I bought my car a year agow My 700r4 had always sliped into 3rd. Very firm shift 1st to 2nd. When taking the motor and trans out I found out that this gye had this thing riged up. There was vacume where I dident need it and no vacume where I needed it and there wasint much vacume to the trans at all. could that be causing the slip or is it the throttle valves sticking? and ovcoarse the one I fear the most my 2-3 clutch is smoked? Your thoughts on any possibilities. Were are you at tuff you tell me how it is lol For more details it will get less slip the less I accelerated.

]]><![CDATA[700r4 2nd to 3rd scare]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8185104/general-discussion/700r4-2nd-to-3rd-scarehttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8109484/general-chevy-technical-discussion/need-help-with-my-400-block-d/index.htmlFri, 19 Mar 2010 08:03:28 -0700need help with my 400 block. :D
ok so i have a 400 small block chevy in my van. the block number is 3951511 ... the starter i have dont fit. i posted somthing about this b4, thanks for ur help. so with this number can anyone tell me what to do to get the right starter for my engine?? i tryed going to auto zone and telling them how many teeth i had on my flywheel, they looked at me like i was a god. lol :p and... what tranny will fit my engine.. its the 700r4 i think i have right? what els will fit!? thankss guysss!!! :D :confused:

]]><![CDATA[need help with my 400 block. :D]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8109484/general-chevy-technical-discussion/need-help-with-my-400-block-dhttp://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8109481/general-chevy-technical-discussion/need-help-with-my-400-block-d/index.htmlFri, 19 Mar 2010 08:03:07 -0700need help with my 400 block. :D
ok so i have a 400 small block chevy in my van. the block number is 3951511 ... the starter i have dont fit. i posted somthing about this b4, thanks for ur help. so with this number can anyone tell me what to do to get the right starter for my engine?? i tryed going to auto zone and telling them how many teeth i had on my flywheel, they looked at me like i was a god. lol :p and... what tranny will fit my engine.. its the 700r4 i think i have right? what els will fit!? thankss guysss!!! :D :confused:

]]><![CDATA[need help with my 400 block. :D]]>http://forums.chevyhiperformance.com/70/8109481/general-chevy-technical-discussion/need-help-with-my-400-block-d