Pump You UpQ I have fuel-pump questions about my '91 Camaro. The fuel tank is out of the car and I want to switch to an inline, out-of-tank pump, but I'm having issues with what to buy. I plan on having an engine that makes around 500 hp, and I'm considering either an LS1 fuel-injected crate engine from Summit with a supercharger, or Summit's 350 H.O. Ram Air crate. Aeromotive makes a pump that delivers 600 lb/hr for $290. After the pump, gauge, and regulator, I would be at $700. I think that's a little steep just for getting the fuel to the engine, but I could be wrong. Thanks.Robert Hamill
A That's a whole lot of fuel for a 500hp engine. At 600 lb/hr, that's enough fuel to support well over 1,000 hp! The pump you speced out is Aeromotives PN 11101. This pump fits into the overkill category for 500hp small-block. Aeromotive offers a more conservtive inline pump for 500 hp and below under PN 11109, which would work perfectly for your crate expectations-and it's only priced at $136.
As for moving the pump from inside the tank to the framerail, for the power level you're looking to produce, we would leave the pump in the tank and upgrade to a better in-tank pump. One of the benefits of the in-tank pump is cooler operation. Walbro is the OEM pump for just about any EFI application and has an in-tank upgrade pump that flows 255 liters of fuel per hour, which will support well over 500 hp.
'68 VortecQ I have a '68 Chevy C10 with a '97 Vortec 350, a set of Hedman headers, and all the fuel-injection parts and wires installed. Since I live in Alabama emissions are not a problem, but do I have to hook up the EGR tube to my headers? Do I have to use the catalytic converters? The engine has four oxygen sensors, two before the cats and two after. Can I bypass these sensors and not use the converters? I want the engine to run just as well as it did in the donor truck. What performance mods can I do to get more power out of this fuel-injected 350?Jennifer Hughey
A Yes, you can leave the converters out of the system. With the four-oxygen sensor system, the front two sensors feed back the air/fuel mixture to the computer. The rear O2 sensors mounted behind the converters measure the converter efficiency. If you leave those sensors off, or install them into the pipe without the converters, the system won't be happy. More than likely it would set a "check engine" light and kick you out for converter efficiency. Check with Casper Electronics for what they call O2 simulators. These little devices create the signal the computer is looking for when you have properly operating catalytic converters. We should note that Casper is a great source for Packard connectors, extension harnesses, and electronic components for hot rodders.
Your engine would run fine with the EGR tube plugged; however, I believe over time it would also set a diagnostic lamp for no exhaust flow through the EGR system or lack of backpressure. Unless you purchase calibration-editing software, you will not be able to turn off that trouble code. It would be much easier and cheaper to install a feed tube from your header up to the inlet manifold.
You'll find that the Vortec engines respond well to many performance mods. If you're looking for an engine with stock-'97 manners, we wouldn't stray far from the stock package. You could install a mild camshaft like the GM Performance Parts Marine camshaft. This cam is installed in Mercury Marine small-blocks, and is used in the HT383 small-block crate engine. This camshaft will work with the factory calibration, boost the torque output, and match the inlet manifold's airflow potential. The cam specs out at 196/ 206 degrees duration at 0.050 inch tappet lift, 0.431/0.451-inch max lift, and is ground on 109 centers. Install this with a set of GMPP 1.6 roller rockers (PN 12370839) and you will see at least a 30hp gain and build excellent slow-speed torque. You can pick these up from your local dealer. Good luck with your truck project, and enjoy.