Not all of us are stunt drivers. There's a point when the factory tubs just aren't going to create enough press to grind your sled to a halt--at least not safely or quickly.
Let's say you need new brakes but don't want to take out a second mortgage to get them, and you really don't want to hassle with large, 12- to 14-inch rotors because that would require a significantly larger wheel and tire combination (which would only add to the cost). What do you do? When it comes to brakes, most guys just want something that works without all the hoopla or flashy calipers.
So what's the best of both worlds? Master Power Brakes offers an 11-inch power disc brake setup for the front of our '66 Elco. While we could have also added discs to the rear, we wanted to keep the build simple and within the constraints of a real-world budget. Thus we opted for the 11-inch big drum kit. It swallows the factory rear brakes by 11/2 inches, and the price was right. Best of all, both brake kits come completely assembled, ready to bolt on right out of the box--seriously.
Why the upgrade? The best way to describe the prowess of our factory four-wheel drum configuration is to compare it to an ocean freighter. We might as well have cut holes in the floorboards so the driver and passenger could stomp their feet down when they needed to stop. This system is 42 years old--definitely time to update the entire system. As for replacing the old with the new, it was too easy. Follow along as we guide you through and put the confidence back in your feet.
QUICK NOTES
THE INSTALL
New power 11-inch front discs and 11-inch drums
BOTTOM LINE
revamp the entire system and start fresh.
PRICE(APPROX)
$3,010
 |  THE FRONT The job is easy,...  THE FRONT
The job is easy, but it will take up the better part of your weekend. To get the ball rolling, we propped the car on four jackstands and removed the tires and the drum covers to reveal the shoes and springs inside. We began with the driver's front and placed a hydraulic jack with a block of wood underneath the A-arm for support. We also disconnected all the brake lines. |  To remove the hub from the...  To remove the hub from the front wheel, we took off the dust cap by splitting it away with a large flat-blade screwdriver. Under the dust cap is where the cotter pin, crown-nut, washer, and bearing all sit. These must be removed to take the hub off. Once these are removed, the hub will fall off. |