1964 Chevy Nova Front Brake Rotor Conversion - Drummin' Away

The tie rod arm from the factory suspension isn't supplied with the kit, so we removed the dust cap, cotter pin, and nut from the drum. We then slid the hub off the axle, which allowed us to use 11/16- and 5/8-inch sockets (front and back, respectively) to remove the arm.

The stock-height spindles included with the kit come with a raw finish. We took the time beforehand to lay high-temp engine paint to both the spindles and calipers. We began to piece together the new kit on the upper and lower control arms. We installed the new spindle to the upper ball joint first with its nut. Then, using a hydraulic jack under the lower control arm, we raised the control arm up to meet with the new spindle. We tightened the upper and lower joints with 3/4- and 7/8-inch sockets, respectively.

The factory tie rod arm, new caliper bracket, and dust shield were all installed at once. The passenger-side bracket (PN 151BR) is used while the tie rod arm is fastened to the back. The dust shield is the last piece to sandwich it all together. We used the factory bolts we had pulled from the drum for the tie rod arm and tightened with 11/16- and 5/8-inch sockets. The last bolt (upper) was fastened with a 15/16-inch socket.

We added a liberal amount of grease on the spindle axle prior to setting the disc in place.

A combination of cross-drilled rotor, outer (smaller previously packed) bearing, and key-way washer (included) was used in one step to install the rotor. Note: Cross-drilled rotors are directional, so the slots must face the front of the vehicle.

The supplied spindle nut was installed first, followed by the cotter pin. Then it was tightened snuggly with an 11/16-inch socket. From there, we attatched the new dust cap and rotated the disc to make sure they spun freely.

We could then install the loaded caliper with the pads already installed. With the bleeder fitting facing up, we installed the caliper onto the bracket. Using the supplied Allen-headed bolts with the steel sleeves, we tightened the whole assembly with a 3/8-inch Allen wrench.

To complete the swap, we threaded on the tie rod nut to connect the rod with the arm and tightened it with an 11/16-inch socket and a new cotter pin.

Two copper washers are included in the kit, along with new steel-braided brake lines and a specially designed bolt. We installed the two washers (top/bottom) of the brake line.

We then removed the safety plug on the new caliper and threaded in the new brake line until tight with a 1/2-inch wrench. We also fastened the upper end of the steel brake line with the hardened line.

With the passenger side complete, the driver side required the same steps and method for removal and install. Since this is a complete-power brake kit, we still have the new brake booster and master cylinder to install. Be sure to follow along next month as we install the brake booster as a complete step-by-step piece and show you how to bleed the brakes.