Lowering springs and drop spindles are two effective options for lowering ride height, but each have their pros and cons. The advantage of drop spindles is that they retain stock suspension travel since they lower the car by moving the spindle upward in relation to the rest of the control arm. That's not the case with lowering springs. "Unlike newer cars, many muscle cars gained positive camber as the suspension was compressed. As a result, the top of the front tires will tilt outward as you lower a suspension with coil springs," says Brian. "You can generally lower a car up to 2 inches without causing any significant suspension or alignment problems. On the other hand, with drop spindles the major drawback is cost and a lack of space. Not only do they cost more than lowering springs, the maximum backspacing with drop spindles is usually limited to about 3.5 inches. Usually, someone will run either drop spindles or lowering springs, but guys who want a very low ride can run both."
Stronger Trailing Arms
Tubular or boxed rear control arms are important for both drag racing and cornering. PST's Catapult trailing arms positively locate and control the rear axle. In drag racing, you'll notice faster 60-foot and quarter-mile times by simply eliminating wheelhop. Likewise, cornering and overall stability are dramatically improved through increased roll stiffness. One of the most important applications for a tubular or boxed trailing arm is when using a larger rear sway bar. The factory stamped steel trailing arms were engineered for a small rear sway bar. Many of our rear sway bars are several hundred percent stiffer than stock, transferring many times more load than the stamped steel arms were designed to accept. In some cases, a large rear sway bar can even snap the factory arms. In order to take full advantage of a stiffer rear sway bar, it's best to upgrade your trailing arms at the same time.
PST is best known for its suspension products, but we also offer a full-line of non-suspension related components. Our second-biggest product line is our brakes. We have complete coverage of muscle car brakes, from stock-replacement rebuild kits to disc brake conversion kits, and all the way up to big brake kits with four-piston aluminum calipers. PST also carries engine overhaul kits and weatherstripping as well. Our mission has always been to provide the customer with a complete solution in one convenient package. It can be extremely frustrating to piece together a kit from various companies, so our frontend kits, brake kits, engine overhaul kits, and weatherstrip kits include everything you need to do the job.
Disc Brake Conversions
Swapping from drum to disc brakes involves more than just bolting on a set of rotors and calipers. The procedure isn't difficult, but piecing together the necessary parts one item at a time is a painstaking chore. To simplify the task, PST's front disc brake conversion kits come with everything required for the swap including rotors, pads, a power booster (in power kits), wheel bearings, a master cylinder, splash shields, installation hardware, single-piston iron calipers, disc brake spindles, caliper mounting brackets, brake hoses, and an adjustable proportioning valve. "Our basic kits work great for many enthusiasts, but we also have more heavy-duty kits for those with greater performance demands," says Brian. "PST's Level 2 kits adds 2-inch drop spindles to our basic conversion kits, and our Level 3 setups include 11-inch slotted rotors and twin-piston aluminum calipers. Lastly, our top-of-the-line Level 4 kits have 12-inch slotted rotors and three-piston aluminum calipers. Regardless of your braking needs, PST probably has something that will work for your application."