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 Following up on the driver...  Following up on the driver side, we installed the pitman arm to the centerlink. A crown nut keeps the two together and we again used an 11/16-inch wrench to tighten it down.  For the tie rods, PST provides...  For the tie rods, PST provides an inner and an outer rod, one larger than the other. We installed the larger (outer) rod to the smaller (inner) rod with PST's upgraded powdercoated adjuster sleeves (call for pricing). Note: The smaller (inner) tie rod has reverse threads.  Next, we took the driver-side...  Next, we took the driver-side tie rod and installed it to the centerlink. We inserted the ball joint and locked it with a crown nut, fastening it with an 11/16-inch wrench.  We took that same driver-side...  We took that same driver-side tie rod and matched it to the spindle. Again, we put the ball joint through the spindle and tightened the crown nut with a 3/4-inch wrench. We used the same method for the passenger side.  Using Flaming River's Universal...  Using Flaming River's Universal Shaft Kit, we measured to fit and cut the excess. We also ordered up a 3/4-inch DD-style coupler to attach the original shaft from the firewall to the Flaming River shaft. This would run down to the universal joint, which is a 36-spline match to our PST steering box.  With the set screws loose,...  With the set screws loose, we slipped on the shaft to the splined box. Then locked the coupler and the universal joint down securely to the shaft. All we'll need now is a basic measurement from the inside of each front tire to get a crude toe-in/out alignment setting. This will allow us to at least get the car on a trailer or down the street under its own power-and to the alignment shop.  Our last step was to thread...  Our last step was to thread in each new zerk fitting from the Totally Stainless kit along with the cotter pins and grease each joint for a squeak-free environment on the road.
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