Holley 700 Electric Choke Kit Install - Step By Step Fuelin' Around

The choke rod must be placed specifically into the choke housing until the lever is past the hole in the rod. Once the choke is operational, this rod opens and closes the butterfly on top of the carburetor, creating vacuum and pulling more fuel when the butterfly is closed and less when it's open.

Taking our time, we placed each component of the choke housing (fast idle cam) and the choke rod to meet up. We threw in a mid-length bolt to keep the assembly together while we inserted the fastener clip with needle nose pliers to secure the choke lever.

Next, we installed the new choke cap gasket onto the housing.

To install the choke cap, the retaining ring must be slid on first. Be sure to install the ring so it bows outward from the choke cap.

Once the ignition is turned on and the cold engine starts, the choke butterfly is closed (cold condition) creating more vacuum and adding more fuel. As power is sent to the choke cap, the bi-metal spring begins to heat up as the motor is running. Once the spring heats up, the spring should begin to wind itself, turning the choke cap. As the choke cap turns, it pulls the choke lever open, allowing additional air, which allows the carburetor to do its job.

With the ring on the choke cap, we installed the assembly onto the choke housing. When we installed the cap, we made sure the bi-metal pickup lever (in the housing) fit into the loop in the bi-metal spring. Once it was in place, we checked it and rotated the choke plate clockwise to open and close it by turning it counterclockwise.

Using the supplied ground wire, we grounded the choke cap to the carburetor by connecting the end-clip and connected the other end through the eyelet with a bolt from the choke housing.

Next, we took the carb back to the car, where we reinstalled it. This kit still requires vacuum to operate properly. Our kit came with a T-connector, which we tapped into the distributor vacuum advance line that goes to the manifold vacuum port on the carburetor. The other T'd line gets fed into the port at the bottom of the choke housing.

Our other wire from the kit needed to be connected to a power source off the ignition, but must only receive voltage when the engine is running; otherwise we could overheat the choke cap and damage it. We found a connection near the firewall that was fused and tapped into it with a splicer. Note: Connecting the ground/power wires opposite of each other could result in a direct short and could cause a fire.

Once the connections were completed, we could set our choke to operate properly. To do this, run the engine and bring the idle up to adjust the choke functions. From there we shut off the motor to make sure the choke would close as it cooled off, andwe fired it up once more to verify that our new electric choke was fully operational.