Last month we left off with a completely machined block, which we had serviced at Quarter Mile Performance Racing in Chatsworth, California, ready for our 383 stroker kit. The standard small-block, four-bolt main core block we received from Engine Quest received a complete overhaul. The block was align honed, decked, clearanced, bored 0.030-inch over, and finish bore honed in a five-step process, all done in preparation for fitting our new stroker assembly kit from Eagle Specialty Products.
Our Eagle competition kit (PN B12010) came with forged components, including an ESP armor finished crank and rods, Mahle -16cc inverted dome pistons, file-to-fit rings along with Clevite rod and main bearings. Our stroker kit featured a forged 4340 steel 3.750-inch crank and 6.00-inch standard H-beam rods with standard 2.100-inch rod journals. Eagle applied their ESP armor finish, specifically designed to allow oil to glide across its surface, much like a car tire hydroplaning through water. The process, a closely guarded secret, slices through oil, cuts down on friction loss and increases overall power.
With our bare block prepped, we laid in the crank, file fit our ring pack, and hung the rods onto each piston. Our short-block was ready to go with a Comp timing set and hydraulic roller camshaft, all before lunchtime. Follow along as we show you what is involved when piecing together an Eagle kit yourself.
Quick Notes
What We Did
Added a complete Eagle Specialty Products' crank and rod assembly with Mahle pistons to our freshly machined block
Bottom Line
We build a solid foundation using off-the-shelf components
The Rods
Eagle's competition series kit also features their ESP armor finished H-beam rods. Their two-piece, 4340 forged steel construction provides outstanding strength, while weighing much less than the factory rods. Each rod is multi-stage heat-treated, X-rayed, sonic-tested, magnafluxed, and shot-peened to stress-relieve the metal. The rods have precision cap alignment sleeves that positively locate each rod cap, silicon bronze bushings for floating pin models, and our model was made with additional cam-to-rod clearance for stroker engines.
| SPECS |
| Big End Bore Diameter |
2.225-inch |
Pin End Bore Diameter |
0.927-inch |
| Horsepower Rating |
700 hp |
RPM Rating |
7,500 rpm |
Since the Eagle kit came with...
Since the Eagle kit came with Clevite rod and main bearings, we purchased a set of Clevite cam bearings for our block. Each set comes with an install sheet and the bearings must be placed in a specific order in the camshaft bores.
Using a camshaft install tool,...
Using a camshaft install tool, we located each bearing into its bore. When the block is upside down, the cam bearing under the rear main cap will have the oil galley hole facing down. For the rest of the cam bearings, the oil galley hole will face up.
Our 'stick of choice is a...
Our 'stick of choice is a Comp Cams hydraulic roller (PN 12-467-8) with 0.576/0.570-inch intake/exhaust lift and 230/236 intake/exhaust duration at 0.050-inch on a 113 lobe center. Even though it's advertised as an XFI camshaft, these specs will give us a very mild mannered street engine with great idle characteristics and tons of torque. Note: this camshaft will require a thrust button and cam plate for install.
Forging Ahead with Armor
The...
Forging Ahead with Armor
The heart of our 383 is Eagle's standard forged 4340 chromoly steel crankshaft. While we could have gone with a cast crank, nothing beats the longevity and strength of a forged unit. Our 3.750-inch stroke crank came internally balanced and was even decked out in Eagle's newest ESP armor finish. While it may look like chrome, we assure you it's not. Eagle's finishing process allows the crankshaft journals to glide on a film of oil more easily and provides added protection against corrosion. It also reduces stress risers where cracks can begin to form.
To install the Clevite main...
To install the Clevite main bearings, we simply matched up each tang in the crank saddle and made sure the oil galley hole was clear. We then applied some Royal Purple assembly lube to each bearing before placing the crank in.
Checking the thrust on the...
Checking the thrust on the crank is critical when building an engine from the ground up. A quick check on the micrometer showed we were spot on with 0.006-inch of thrust. Note: 0.006- to 0.080-inch is ideal.
We made sure to apply a healthy...
We made sure to apply a healthy amount of ARP Ultra-Torque assembly lube to each bolt prior to threading it into the block. Using a 1/2-inch socket, we torqued each cap down to 65 ft-lb, beginning with the center cap and working outward. Afterwards, we gave the crank a good spin to make sure there was no binding.
Eagle's competition kit comes...
Eagle's competition kit comes with a complete set of rings and wristpin locks. Although the C-clips are more difficult to install, they are much stronger than traditional spiro-locks. Hanging the rods onto the piston will involve some patience though. Each piston must receive a C-clip lock and assembly lube in each wristpin bore. From there, the rod can be installed with the pin and locked in with the remaining C-clip.
Taking time to apply oil to...
Taking time to apply oil to each cylinder will remove contaminants, prevent ring galling, and eliminate any dry startup issues. We used 30WT oil (non-synthetic) and a paper towel to soak each cylinder.