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1972 Chevy Nova - NOS Install - Bottled Fun!Adding Nitrous to a Stock 5.3L LS From the April, 2011 issue of Chevy High Performance By Henry De Los Santos Photography by David Stoker, Lead Image: Mike Morgan
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Some call it a trend, but the fact is modern-day LS powerplants are finding their way beneath the hoods of our favorite street machines. The smaller LS variant, namely the 5.3L (also called Vortec 5300 and LM7) engine, is growing especially popular these daysbut why? For starters, originally offered in 1999, it was placed in a variety of truck applications, making it widely available. And these little gems featured the same 3.62-inch stroke as the 5.7L counterpart, only with a slightly smaller bore at 3.78 inches instead of the 3.90 inches. The difference really comes down to cubic inches at 325 ci versus the 346 ci. The other notable feature is the block construction; both are offered in aluminum, but the cast-iron 5.3Ls are easier to get a hold of. Rather than just talking about it, we wanted to showcase how well a factory 5.3L would respond with a small shot of nitrous. Our test subject belongs to one of our esteemed associates, David Stoker, who recently dropped an ’04 vintage 5.3L drivetrain into a ’72 Nova. The entire package costs just under $2,500, including the salvage yard 5.3L, the 4L60E transmission that was attached to it, and the Turn Key Engine Supply retrofit kit. Aside from the late-model powerplant, the Nova still sports its original suspension. The only other big-ticket item, if you can call it that, is a 10-bolt rearend with 3.42:1 gears that he scored off the local classifieds. With everything in place, we’re talking about a 3,300-pound cruiser (without driver) that rides on a set of 26x8.5 Mickey Thompson ET Drag slicks at the track for extra bite. When it came to the baseline numbers, the little 5.3L proved it was no slouch by belting out 8.59 at 81 mph in the eighth-mile, approximately 13.40 in the quarter-mile. Sure, that’s a solid number, but we wanted to see the gains to be had with an additional 125hp shot from our Nitrous Oxide Systems EFI Wet Plate system (PN 05168). At the end of the test session, the results were impressive, to say the least; this budget-based Nova has enough oats to eat up the heartiest of street contenders. We also appreciate the fact that Stoker isn’t afraid to show it off at the dragstrip, and that alone is enough to put a great big grin on our faces. | The Results | | Stock | Nitrous | | 60-Foot | 1.92 | 1.66 | | E.T. (eighth-mile) | 8.59 | 7.60 | | MPH | 81 | 91.85 | | *E.T. (quarter-mile conversion) | 13.40 | 11.86 | | *Based on 1.56 conversion factor | | Traction | | Mickey Thompson ET Drag | | Size | 26x8.5 | | Tire Pressure | 13 psi | | Power Adder | | Kit | PN | Shot | Jetting | | Nitrous Oxide Systems | 05168 | 125 | 55/35 (Nitrous/Fuel) |  We started off by disconnecting...  We started off by disconnecting the Lokar throttle cable assembly.  David Stoker then removed...  David Stoker then removed the throttle body from the intake manifold.  Since this kit fits between...  Since this kit fits between the throttle body and manifold, you’ll have to swap out the shorter factory studs from the manifold with the new ones supplied in the NOS kit.  With the NOS plate in place,...  With the NOS plate in place, we replaced the throttle body with the new hardware. Once bolted into place, we could reconnect the electrical connections and cable.  This system is designed for...  This system is designed for a Camaro or Corvette LS1 application, so we had to improvise a little with the microswitch positioning. The supplied bracket is pliable, and we were able to bend it into position. Make sure to test the connection between the throttle and the microswitch at wide-open throttle.  Next, we mounted the fuel...  Next, we mounted the fuel and nitrous solenoids onto the bracket by screwing them into place. We also went ahead and installed the fittings with a little pipe dope for a good seal.  To mount the solenoids on...  To mount the solenoids on the intake manifold, we bent and clocked the brackets to fit our needs.  We then installed the supplied...  We then installed the supplied AN-4 stainless braided lines to the solenoids and routed them cleanly for the NOS plate (blue for nitrous and red for fuel).  We then installed the supplied...  We then installed the supplied AN-4 stainless braided lines to the solenoids and routed them cleanly for the NOS plate (blue for nitrous and red for fuel).  With the lines connected to...  With the lines connected to the solenoids, we placed the 55/35 (nitrous/fuel) jets into place and finished by connecting the lines onto the plate. This kit is adjustable from 100-150hp levels; we went straight to the middle setting and tried out the 125 shot.  To fuel the nitrous plate,...  To fuel the nitrous plate, we routed the fuel line from the opposite side of the fuel solenoid and connected it to the Schrader valve on the factory fuel rail. Make sure the line doesn’t kink anywhere.  For the nitrous feed line,...  For the nitrous feed line, we covered both ends with tape to prevent any dirt or grease from getting into it, and routed it down the rear of the engine to the undercarriage of the car to the trunk area. With the lines situated, we connected one end to the remaining port on the nitrous solenoid.  We were going for an unassuming...  We were going for an unassuming look, so we connected the ground wire and ran our power wires inside the chassis. None would be the wiser of what this 5.3L is capable of.  Moving to the trunk, we first...  Moving to the trunk, we first had to mount our bottle brackets. You also need to have the valve end of the bottle angled upward with the knob at its highest point; this will ensure the siphon tube is positioned correctly at the base of the bottle.  To complete the system, we...  To complete the system, we drilled two holes to accommodate the blow-off tube (NHRA requirement) and the nitrous feed line. While it doesn’t show here, we also installed a rubber O-ring to prevent any chaffing of the feed line and the blow-off tube.  To complete the install, we...  To complete the install, we mounted our arming switch and made sure it was within arm’s reach when belted in. To test the system, we fired up the motor with the nitrous bottle closed and tapped the microswitch. This should allow a small amount of extra fuel to be released, which will cause the engine to sputter. Remember to tap, not push and hold. After checking for fuel leaks with the engine running, we could open the bottle valve and listen for leaks in the feed line. No leaks detected—we were good to go! CHP
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