1973 Chevy Camaro - Transmission Swap - 5 Deep

With the flywheel removed, Goodlad used an abrasive wheel to clean up the back of the block. Then, using a file, he checked the block for any imperfections that could prevent the new bellhousing from sitting flush. Once everything checked out, he installed the needle roller pilot bearing with a flat drift. He emphasized the importance of using a flush tool rather than the end of a socket; any bearing distortion could make it hard to install the transmission and even cause premature bearing failure.

The Elite kit comes with a nodular iron flywheel and hardware, but we opted for the SFI-approved billet steel upgrade for an additional $150. If you're using the supplied ARP moly lube, you'll want to torque the flywheel bolts to 70 ft-lb; otherwise it's 90 ft-lb with conventional oil.

The Elite kit also comes with a heavy-duty clutch kit rated at 425 hp and includes a disc, a pressure plate, a throwout bearing, an alignment tool, and hardware. Since we upgraded to the billet flywheel and have a motor making a significant amount of power waiting to be dropped in, we went with the Strip Comp rated at 700 hp for $345 more. Once it was secured in place, Goodlad torqued the 3/8-inch bolts to 35 ft-lb.

You can skip this step if you're using the mechanical linkage. Because we were using a hydraulic throwout bearing setup, prior to placing the hydraulic bearing the antirotation stud was installed onto the input shaft retainer collar.

Included in the kit is an aluminum reproduction version of GM's 621 bellhousing. It is precision-built for a perfect fit, machined within 0.005 runout, and comes with the ball stud, a factory inspection cover, and hardware.

The self-adjusting hydraulic throwout bearing assembly comes complete as one unit with custom braided lines and slides right over the input shaft. The two braided lines that attach to the bearing are a bleeder line up top and a lower line that connects to the compact master cylinder.

If you don't have a factory console (or are converting a factory automatic to stick), the stock Tremec shifter mechanism centered in your floorboard is more than adequate. If you're looking for a true bolt-on shifter from a four-speed conversion that'll position the shifter stub in the factory location without cutting or modifying the trans tunnel, then the optional offset shifter is the way to go. It'll cost an additional $295, but that's a bargain if you don't want to cut or are planning to eventually install the factory console.

Because we were starting with an automatic car, the tranny had to be mocked up from underneath to see where the shifter hole needed to be cut. Once it was positioned, it was only a matter of hitting it with a punch, then using a jigsaw.

The CMG crossmember is mandrel-bent, 0.120-inch-wall, 1020 carbon-steel tubing with CNC-cut flanges, and features precision TIG welding. Translation: It offers a perfect fit with serious rigidity. All kits come with an Energy Suspension polyurethane mount for longevity. If your body mounts are crushed or if you have floor sag, you will have to play with it a little to get the crossmember to fit properly. We had both issues, but it still went together with minimal effort.