Over the last couple of months, we've been really pushing the Nova through its paces. And so far, it's proven to be a solid performer, holding up its end of the deal. Still, there was one lingering problem that we haven't addressed until recently. Namely the less-than-functional throttle assembly that made accelerating out of corners feel more like a leg press.
When we first transplanted our small-block, the six-cylinder throttle cable wouldn't work with the new mill and we ended up purchasing a universal throttle cable from a local parts store. While it worked to get the Nova down the street, it never really functioned properly; it wasn't supposed to be a permanent fix but it sufficed for the time being.
What we learned was that it was difficult to accelerate out of turns and rolling into the throttle was anything but smooth. With minimal downtime between events, we kept pushing our luck until we could fix it properly. Of course, as Murphy' Law dictates; it was only a matter of time before the gas pedal gave way. The cable broke cleanly off its shaft during our last outing.
In need of a fix, we decided to forgo the factory pedal assembly. While replacing the cable would have been a quick fix, it wouldn't have been a permanent cure. Instead, a search on Lokar's website found us everything we needed, including a 36-inch throttle cable kit and a pedal set including a billet brake and an adjustable gas pedal. The install took the better part of an afternoon, but the end results are well worth it. Follow along as we go through the steps and show you how to install a fresh set of billet pedals and a new throttle cable assembly.
Quick Notes
What We Did
Replaced the factory pedals with a universal throttle cable
Bottom Line
Smooth pedal movement with a competition look
To make things a bit easier,...
To make things a bit easier, we removed our Auto Metal Direct aluminum cowl hood. To begin, we removed the universal throttle cable from the Holley carburetor linkage.
Next, we removed the windshield...
Next, we removed the windshield wiper motor to give us better access to the gas pedal linkage.
The gas pedal is easy to remove...
The gas pedal is easy to remove from the firewall (engine side). Before the two bolts are removed, a small C-clip must be released. With the clip out, the throttle pedal arm will slide away from the bracket. From there, the two remaining bolts that fasten the bracket to the firewall can be removed with a 3/8-inch socket.
One of the nicer features...
One of the nicer features of the Lokar pedal assembly (PN BAG-6142) is its adjustability, which allows you to custom fit it to any driver's foot position. To install the gas pedal, it must first be disassembled with a 5mm Allen wrench.
Next, the portion of the gas...
Next, the portion of the gas pedal bracket that was disassembled is slid from the firewall (engine side) through to the cabin. From there, the gas pedal will meet again with this bracket where it's reassembled with the Allen bolt. The bracket will also fasten to the firewall (engine side) with the factory hardware. It was then locked down with a 3/8-inch ratchet.
Inside the cabin, we reassembled...
Inside the cabin, we reassembled the pedal with the Allen bolt and adjusted the pedal (with help and preferably from a seated position). From here, we still need to run the throttle cable to the carburetor.
We removed one of the carburetor...
We removed one of the carburetor baseplate bolts and installed the supplied throttle cable bracket. We started by mocking up the cable (PN DP-1000HT36) for fitment. Once we had the correct measurements, we used a cutting disc to cut the cable and eventually wrapped it with duct tape to prevent any potential fraying.
We then fed our newly shortened...
We then fed our newly shortened throttle cable through the firewall and fastened it to the end of the gas pedal. Then it was just a matter of tightening the 9/16-inch nut against the firewall for a tight fit.
Next, we assembled the linkage...
Next, we assembled the linkage that connects the cable to the carburetor. Following the instructions we assembled the cable housing adjuster and used a 3/32-inch Allen wrench to lock down the carburetor end fitting to the cable.
Our next step involved linking...
Our next step involved linking the entire assembly to the carburetor and to adjust the cable to a "neutral" position with no tension. This is done by loosening the adjustment sleeve and either increasing or reducing the length of cable. Our first try resulted in an abnormally high idle, which meant the cable had too much tension.
Lastly, we scribed and drilled...
Lastly, we scribed and drilled four holes for the brake pedal (PN BAG-6143). Using the supplied brake pedal hardware, we fastened the Lokar billet pedal down. Once mounted, we applied glue the rubber pads and the install is complete.
Our efforts were immediately...
Our efforts were immediately apparent after stabbing the throttle for the first time. The new throttle cable assembly provided a smooth transition from idle throughout the entire throttle sweep. This is definitely something we should have fixed sooner rather than later. Our new Lokar pedals will also instill more confidence during autocross sessions with their non-slip pads. We can't wait for our next event to try them out.