New Metal
Since we covered a patch panel installation elsewhere in this issue, we decided to contact Mark Vogt, general manager of Classic Industries, an OER distributor, to talk a bit about aftermarket sheetmetal. "Nobody beats a panel straight anymore," says Vogt. "There's so much good metal to replace it." So what tips does he have for those who decide to replace their metal? "We recommend professional installation on everything, even a fender that bolts on in five places. There are shims to deal with, and the whole thing gets more complicated if you're doing a ground-up. There may be other problems to deal with as well. And I believe in replacing the whole panel rather than a just a quarter skin. It'll blend better, you can make fit better, and it's easier to do, since it goes on at the spot welds." And that black coating aftermarket panels are coated with? "It's not a primer," he reminds us. "The coating is a rust inhibitor and protector for shipping. It has to be removed and the panel primed." What's the biggest problem with replacement sheetmetal? Vogt says "99.9 percent" of complaints are shipping damage. "Don't sign a delivery clear if there's a dent, nick, or anything that shouldn't be there," he says. And what does he say to those who question the fit and finish of aftermarket sheetmetal? "Get original metal if you're building a 100-point resto. If not, no one should know the difference."
You want to use as little...
You want to use as little body filler as possible, and that's where the art of working metal with a hammer and dolly comes into play. This impact area actually tore a hole in this Chevelle's trunk filler panel/rear panel, allowing us to see the dolly being held behind the metal as it's worked with the hammer.
We didn't get into tools in...
We didn't get into tools in our "Counting the Cost" sidebar, but make no mistake about it, if you're gonna tackle any bodywork on your own, you're gonna want power tools. A grinder is essential for paint removal. Once you're sanding primer, you'll need a DA (dual action) sander or a sanding block (available in orbital and straight-line configurations), depending on what area of the car you're sanding. Cheaper versions may be available, but plan on spending $50-$100 dollars apiece for a decent tool that will last for more than one job.
Refinish Vs. Custom Paint
So just what is the difference between refinish and custom paints? They're two different strategies for two different purposes," says House of Kolor's training manager Brian Lynch. "The essence of refinish paint is to try to duplicate what was originally on the car, with certain expectations. Most of these paints are fairly simple, Lynch explains. They have an iridescent color (that's a metallic or a pearl to you and me) protected by a layer of clear. The layers of primer, basecoat, and clear are only 4-5 mm thick. With a custom paint, the metallic flakes might measure as much as 6 mm or even larger. "It's a structurally thicker paint job to accommodate thicker flakes and particles needed for the optical effects one sees," Lynch says.