|
|
Out Of The BoxLS2 Crate Engine in a First-Gen Camaro From the February, 2009 issue of Chevy High Performance By Terry Stevens
|
|
These days, if you want to revamp your classic ride to modern levels, there is a plethora of engines, transmissions, suspension, chassis, interior, and other upgrades to make your old iron a sterling performer. Perhaps the ultimate exchange is to put a new, high-tech LS-series engine in place of that reliable, but dated, small-block. The new LS2 Corvette engine currently claims top honors as the most desired candidate for a high-tech swap. Follow along as we detail the highlights of installing this fearsome 6.0L in a classic '68 Camaro ragtop.Though this is not a project for the faint-hearted, take encouragement from us. If we can do it, then you can, too. The aftermarket product sponsors herein will help you in any way they can. Proceed with patience and perseverance, and the final result will be a car that performs much better than new and will be calling you to hit the road. You can tach it or baby it, and it will reward you with head-spinning acceleration or docile cruising around town . . . and it'll knock down an easy 20 mpg with an overdrive transmission. The car had languished in several garages and barns because its severe accident damage baffled every owner as to how to put it back together correctly. In the months to follow, we'll detail how we brought this 37-year-old survivor back to a life it never anticipated. You will witness an amazing transformation from a hulk laden with old parts into a sleek, classy, custom ride! This first installment concerns the first question out of every person's mouth when they finish ogling the exterior: "What engine are you running? A 327 or 350?" Well, it's easier to pop the hood and show you!  This is the basic crate LS2...  This is the basic crate LS2 engine as shipped from GMPP. Although not shown or ever stated, realize that Some Assembly Is Required! The installation is both challenging and complex, and will require a high degree of patience and perseverance.  With minor modifications,...  With minor modifications, the original crate makes a great temporary engine stand. With at least four or five test fittings for the engine, transmission, and rack-and-pinion steering, you can see the value of an engine cradle versus an engine stand with all its bolts and fasteners.  Prior to lifting the engine,...  Prior to lifting the engine, make sure you have clearance and proper support for the body, and that you will have sufficient travel for the engine hoist.  As you can see, LS1 motor...  As you can see, LS1 motor mounts will not allow the oil pan to clear the subframe crossmember. The PVC sleeve is protecting the oil filter (the engine comes with Mobil 1 5W-30 synthetic oil and an AC Delco PF 44 oil filter). The left arrow points to the cam position sensor; the right arrow, the knock sensor (not used).  A better view of the conflict...  A better view of the conflict between the stock oil pan and the subframe.  The solution is Street and...  The solution is Street and Performance's motor-mount plates. They move the engine back 2 1/2 inches from the stock location, thereby allowing the modified Street and Performance oil pan to clear the subframe, as well as moving the center of gravity aft for improved handling. We got the Energy Suspension urethane motor mounts from Summit Racing.  The modified Street and Performance...  The modified Street and Performance oil pan allows clearance of the Flaming River rack-and-pinion as well as the stock steering linkage. Slight modification to the Flaming River mounting bracket allowed better clearance for the oil pan and Street and Performance headers, but was not necessary. The oil-level/temp sensor (arrow) is not used.  After the engine is in place,...  After the engine is in place, the transmission can be lifted into position. The flywheel is attached here, but the clutch and pressure plate were not installed, since there will be at least two to three trial fits to determine what part of the tunnel must be cut away to allow the transmission to fit properly. (The arrow highlights where the oil-temperature fitting will be mounted.)  The reason for not installing...  The reason for not installing the clutch and pressure plate is illustrated here. As you can see, the input shaft has full engagement in the pilot bearing, and if the clutch assembly was installed, this would not be visible.  A stock Chevrolet 11-inch...  A stock Chevrolet 11-inch bellhousing requires clearancing at the starter location. Keisler Automotive is producing a new cast bellhousing that will afford the proper clearance.  The entire installation of...  The entire installation of the LS2 and Tremec T56 transmission was a "learn-as-you-go" operation. Bobby Livengood made the initial cut on the tunnel to allow for the proper transmission height.  After the initial cut, the...  After the initial cut, the decision was made to gather the proper tools and cut the entire tunnel out!  Sometimes you just need a...  Sometimes you just need a break to get the blood sugar up! Way up!  The cutoff wheel works wonders....  The cutoff wheel works wonders. Ideally, this work is best done before the car goes to the paint shop, but we were in a time crunch so we were very careful as we cut the tunnel away. Note the tranny ear that is still hitting the tunnel.  The benefit of cutting the...  The benefit of cutting the transmission tunnel and fabricating a completely new tunnel top is that it allows the entire GM LS2 wiring harness to be routed inside the car. Although not shown, the minimal clearances for accessing the backup-light, reverse lockout, and VSS plugs require access holes to be cut and removable inspection plates installed. We used the same metal tunnel material (20- to 24-gauge steel) for these plates.  After the exhaust was installed,...  After the exhaust was installed, it was impossible to reach the reverse lockout plug.  Street & Performance supplies...  Street & Performance supplies everything to assist with the install. Pictured is the A/C compressor, alternator, power-steering pump, and all the hardware to mount the accessories. The 115-inch Goodyear Gatorback belt ties everything together; it is highly recommended that you carry a spare in the car.  Street & Performance understands...  Street & Performance understands Murphy's Law and clearly labels the backside of each accessory bracket so that even we could install it all correctly!  Clearance issues with the...  Clearance issues with the manifold valve and the A/C bracket had us stymied until S&P's Mark Campbell told us that the purge valve and associated tubing could be removed, since it wouldn't be needed for the swap.  We tied the steam line from...  We tied the steam line from the head to the upper hose with a fitting from Be Cool. However, we will route this line into a fitting tapped into the water pump. Note the capped purge valve fitting.  The finished serpentine drive...  The finished serpentine drive and accessories. A dress-up cover is available for the crank pulley, but the holes have to be tapped for the bolts . . . and we ran out of time!  S&P sent the older-style knock...  S&P sent the older-style knock sensors that matched up to the wiring harness connectors. They screw into a tapped hole in the location shown but should only be snugged into position. If they are too tight, they may sense false detonation.  Be brave lad, be brave! Simply...  Be brave lad, be brave! Simply place the wiring harness on the engine and it will quickly become evident where everything plugs in, because each lead is clearly labeled.  As the hookup progresses,...  As the hookup progresses, use wire ties to loosely attach the harness to the engine. Dress up the ties with a pair of diagonal cutting pliers that have been ground flat so the cuts will produce smooth ends (otherwise the very sharp ends will cut you).  The Corvette drive-by-wire...  The Corvette drive-by-wire accelerator module is plugged into the computer and the accelerator- pedal assembly. The standard connector as shipped by GM may not be correct (different guide pin placement for some applications). Confirm correct module and harness hookup with Street & Performance.  The crank-position sensor...  The crank-position sensor is located behind the starter and is only accessible with the starter removed.  We were able to attach the...  We were able to attach the computer under the dash because we included Vintage Air's A/C box in place of the stock air box and ducting. Stock ducting components will require that you mount it elsewhere. The most logical location is over the right front inner fender, although S&P can make a longer harness for almost any location. In addition, you must also have room to install the throttle "black box" as well as the computer fuse box.  The result is a very clean...  The result is a very clean installation. Note the Auto Meter fuel-pressure sensor and cutout in the driver-side engine cover.  While Terry and Travis "Boy...  While Terry and Travis "Boy Wonder" Moose look on, CHP and Flowmaster guru Kevin McClelland says: "Terry, what you need to do now is...!" Stay tuned for more features on the buildup of all the systems in this car and the performance-enhancing improvements that are inevitable.
|
|
|