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Country Honk, Camaro Revival Part IFrom Basket to Bitchen': Laying The Foundation From the February, 2009 issue of Chevy High Performance By Terry Stevens
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Old car restoration is akin to old house restoration: you have to tear it all apart to determine the extent of rust, deterioration, and hidden damage. So before you tackle a complete vehicle take-apart, gather some basic supplies: * Half a dozen boxes of quart and gallon Ziploc bags (Freezer bags tend to hold up best and any store brand will work--don't get the cheapest ones since they tend to break--plus they are hard to open and reseal.) * A multicolor supply of Sharpie permanent markers * A roll each of 3/4-, 1-, and 2-inch masking tape. (quality painter's tape that goes on and comes off easily) * Digital (preferred) or roll-film camera * 50-pound sack of coffee beans, economy-size jar of aspirin, and... * A huge box of antacid!
Now it's time to evaluate your metal-working skills. Unless you are a skilled metal fabricator, the first time you see rust, holes, and dents, you'll begin to get a sinking feeling. There is a major difference between a welder and a fabricator: a fabricator is a person with special skills and creativity. Bobby Livengood knows how the metal will react to cutting, welding, and pressure. He also possesses the ability to see in three dimensions and visualize how all the hidden surfaces not being worked will react to cutting or welding. Unless you are an accomplished fabricator do not attempt these modifications. Seek a qualified metalworker. Document everything. Take tons of pictures as each component is removed. (A digital camera with macro capability is highly recommended. Use the flash to adequately illuminate dark areas.) You will be amazed at how leaky your memory becomes all those months after the initial take-apart. Fill the plastic bags with system components labeled as to left, right, north, south, etc. Draw little diagrams and label them. Always note which vehicle the parts come off of (it might be a donor car you are working with initially). When you unplug any component, mechanical or electrical, mark it with tape to identify the respective plugs. If you don't know the name of a component, use letters or numbers on the connectors (A to A; B to B) so they may be rejoined correctly later. You will also use the tape to keep multi-component systems joined, such as the windshield wiper arm and linkage mech-anisms, or window regulators and guides. Okay, that's a start. We'll now detail the first steps we took with the Hotchkis Camaro convertible to morph it from the pathetic creature pictured above into a head-turning, lady-attracting, road-carving delight. Keep an eye on the Hotchkis Web site for important announcements about this car on the 2006 Power Tour! And join us next month, as we make this carcass rollable.  Your project car may very...  Your project car may very well include parts! Until they are unpacked, sorted, and checked, there is no way to know what else you may have or need. Careful planning will make this journey fun and worthwhile.  As you dig into it, keep a...  As you dig into it, keep a list of the pieces, their condition, and whether they can be repaired or should be replaced. Be brutally honest--it is usually less expensive to replace a part (only one of the panels shown here was useable) because repair time and the skill required may well run 2-3 times the replacement cost from aftermarket suppliers such as Goodmark Industries, Rick's First Gen Camaros, or Year One.  You may get lucky and actually...  You may get lucky and actually have N.O.S. pieces, still in their GM wrappers. Unfortunately for us, the trim in the wrappers was for an RS, therefore unusable. You could offset costs by putting such treasures on e-Bay.  This is the original mileage...  This is the original mileage in 1990, when someone tried unsuccessfully to restore this basket case. Seems this little beauty's off-road excursion in the '70s had made a pretzel out of the frame and sheetmetal. Since no one 'fessed up, the car was passed through three more owners/unsuccessful restorers before its current rebuild. We got stung, but yeah man, we had the antidote: Bobby Livengood!  This drive-on lift would be...  This drive-on lift would be the Camaro's cradle for five months. Prior to further disassembly, we studied catalogs, brochures, and assembly manuals to compile a replacement parts list--sorted, sourced, and stored with the help of an Excel spreadsheet. We ordered a Goodmark door as well as a ton of interior, exterior, and convertible-top parts from Year One, Rick's First Gen Camaros, Kee Auto Top Manufacturing, and a host of others.  Its solid floors were a dead...  Its solid floors were a dead giveaway that the Camaro had spent most of its life in covered storage (note the convertible-unique bracing). If it had been stored outside, the floors would have been totally gone.  Let's see . . . I know there...  Let's see . . . I know there is a way to take all this stuff out! A good 1/4-inch drive socket set, a cordless drill, and bright illumination will prove indispensable. Many of the fasteners are hidden, but the assembly manual will guide you to the proper steps for disassembly.  For future reference and a...  For future reference and a clue about how it all goes back together, take pictures as each piece comes out. Don't throw anything away! The ducting will be replaced with Vintage Air pieces, and the new Painless Wiring harness will replace the old wiring. You'll reuse many of the wiring harness pieces to attach the new wires to body clips, light sockets, and switches. Some of those dash knobs have hidden bezel nuts or attachment clips.  Certainly there are various...  Certainly there are various ways (and opinions) of stripping a body shell. We elected to have Robbie Morrow (CPC Stripping) blast the car with baking soda. In addition to not warping the metal, the baking soda can be sprayed with water and remain cool. Meanwhile, this process creates a chemical barrier that prevents rust. Prior to application of any etching or priming compounds, however, the metal must be treated with a surface prep cleaner.  Although not absolutely necessary,...  Although not absolutely necessary, it's time to clean the gunk and brittle seam sealer from the joints--a sojourn that will make you intimately familiar with busted knuckles and sliced fingers unless you wear gloves! You may also uncover hidden rust spots.  The result is a surface you...  The result is a surface you may prime and seal completely before hiding it under carpet. Note the twisting and wrinkling at the forward-end of the tunnel--tattletales of bad things!  Bobby Livengood begins his...  Bobby Livengood begins his assessment of what is wrong and how to properly fix the car. This image was shot after a local body shop had tried to build the body panels with tons of filler. We removed all the fresh mud (up to 1/2-inch thick) and re-bent, reshaped, straightened, and worked the metal until the body was better-than-virgin. This is not the place to cut corners.  As Bobby studied the car from...  As Bobby studied the car from various angles, it became evident that the Camaro had been rolled onto the left side and top, something the second owner confirmed. We knew we were working with more than just a left-quarter impact and were able to logically check measurements and determine where the car was out of square. Here Bobby used the hammer and dolly to straighten the rear seat support--it had a bend in the middle that looked stock!  Bobby used the Porta-Power...  Bobby used the Porta-Power hydraulic press and a prybar to begin the re-squaring process. Note that the replacement quarter-panel is for a coupe, which is shaped differently from the convertible panel. They weren't available at the time, but as you read this, C.A.R.S. is starting to reproduce them.  This montage shows what is...  This montage shows what is involved in proper metalwork. Bobby made a pattern of a small section of the right convertible quarter-panel, then progressed a section at a time on the left side to reproduce the proper shape. There were five separate pieces of individually shaped metal required, plus the corresponding cutting of the panel.
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