A Richard, it's always the same old question. Should I run a big-block or a small-block? You have mentioned many of the small-block's finer points. However, you failed to mention the impressiveness of a fully built Rat in the engine bay of your '66. We think that you could go either way and be very happy.
One of the nice things about the A-body is that it has a full-perimeter frame under them. The El Caminos have a fully boxed frame; however, they will only fit under El Cams and Wagons. For serious street fun and a trip to the track once and a while, the stock frame is more than adequate. There are a few things that will stiffen it up. We would install polyurethane body mounts, which help strengthen the frame by tying the frame and body together. Pick up a set from Energy Suspension under PN 3.4111. This set comes with all the upper and lower body mounts and sleeve and washer hardware. Check with Energy Suspension for more information at (949) 361-3935, or online at www.energysuspension.com
Also, we would install upper to lower rear control arm pick-up point braces. The factory used these in the later big-block cars. Hotchkis Performance has produced a really nice pair they call Trailing Arm Mount Braces. These braces bolt in between the upper and lower pick-up points and are adjustable to fit right in. They come with all the necessary hardware and are direct bolt-in. This brace will reinforce the upper control arm cross-member of the frame. The A-body's rear suspension was prone to wheel hop; many of those crossmembers have been ripped right out of the frame when drivers weren't careful. These braces will eliminate that chance. This brace kit is sold under PN 1403. Give Hotchkis a call for more information at (887) 466-7655, or go online at www.hotchkis.net
Aussie RacerQGreetings from down under. I am a subscriber to CHP, and your column is the highlight of an already brilliant magazine and I eagerly await each issue. I have some questions for you regarding the ZZ4 crate engine I am planning to buy and install in my project car (a '74 HQ Holden Monaro GTS). This car was factory-equipped with a 350 Chevrolet engine, TH400 automatic trans-mission, a 3.08 rear-axle ratio, and 14-inch wheels.
Will I be able to run the stock stall-speed torque converter with this combination, as I do not want to go to a higher stall speed unit if I can avoid it? Is the manifold vacuum sufficient to operate the power brake booster and vacuum modulator? And with the ZZ4 roller camshaft, is the fuel-pump pushrod compatible? I have noticed that the after-market produces fuel-pump pushrods with a roller tip, a bronze tip, and a ceramic tip. Should I use one of these, or does the ZZ4 come with a fuel-pump pushrod from the factory? For a carburetor I am trying to decide between a Holley 650 or 750 double-pumper or a Barry Grant Demon (PN 12802010CZZ4), which is offered as being calibrated to suit the ZZ4. I remember reading in one of your columns that you prefer the double-pumper over the vacuum-secondary carb, and that the 4779 Holley was correctly calibrated for the ZZ4. Naturally, I would like to install a carb that will require little or no calibration changes if possible. If it were up to you, which way would you go? Is the D-shaped port the same dimension as that found on the Fast Burn heads? Will a set of headers designed to suit Fast Burn heads match up properly to the ZZ4 heads? Thanks for any help you can give.Mark HeatonAustralia
A Mark, Holden has build very cool cars for years. They were very close to their brothers Chevy built up here. Thankfully, the drivetrains were exactly the same and you can interchange out any of the performance components designed for a Gen I small-block. Let me see if I can get through all your questions.