Clutch PlayQI'm having a hard time finding a budget-minded adapter/bellhousing to fit an LT1 ('96 Camaro SS) T-56 transmission to my push-style clutch setup in my '79 Monte Carlo. I'm aware that these transmissions will only handle 450 lb-ft of torque and are not as good as a D&D or Keisler retrofit. I'm married to a limited budget so that's not an option. I've found kits that cost $500-$600 and was wondering if you guys had any resources that incorporated the adapter plate and bearing retainer (if that is all I need) to bolt the T-56 to the engine? The rest of the swap I've got handled (crossmember, clutch linkage, driveshaft, speedo). This poor gearhead would welcome any ideas of directions for further research.Thanks.Tadd BainumVia e-mail
A It's a shame with all the T-56s out in fourth-gen Camaros that it's such a pain to get them into our earlier cars. Yes, there are some pricey kits out there to accomplish what you are trying to do.
If we were like you, on a budget, we would leave the trans and bellhousing complete and use the '96 LT1 clutch setup with the hydraulic clutch. We know you have linkage-style clutch actuation, but you could change it over to hydraulic without a lot of pain (cash). Check with Keisler Engineering for its hydraulic clutch conversion for the G-body cars. You really don't need the complete kit if you go with the factory bellhousing slave cylinder. Keisler's system comes complete with a nickel-plated steel master cylinder designed for high-heat performance car use. The bracket to mount the master to the firewall, the linkage to the pedal, and a remote reservoir come in the kit.Source: keislerauto.com
Camshaft RetentionQI bought a Gen I short-block and just installed a cam (from Comp Cams). Is something supposed to hold the cam in place? What holds it in there? Did I miss something? I installed the cam and lubed it with the supplied lube. However, my build did not go as scheduled and it's been sitting on a stand for months. Do I have to relube it? I can see that the red cam lube has run down the sides of my block. If so, what should I use? Also, I'm going to use a one-piece Milodon rubber oil pan gasket with metal sleeves to prevent over-tightening. Does it need gasket sealer? Thanks in advance.Derrick SakaiSan Leandro, CA
A Camshaft retention on Chevrolet flat-tappet camshafts is achieved by grinding a slight amount of taper (angle) into the camshaft lobes. The spring pressure of the valvetrain, combined with this angle, forces the camshaft rearward into the block. Also, the load of the engine oil pump helps pull back on the camshaft. No, you didn't miss anything on your installation.
Yes, you will need to relube the engine, but we would do it by priming the engine well. If you don't have an engine oil primer you will need to get one. This primer allows you to spin the oil pump with an electric drill motor. GM sells a very nice primer under PN 12368084 that will work with all V-6s, small-, and big-block engines. Next, pick up a can of GM Engine Oil Supplement. New environmentally friendly engine oils out there mean a reduced amount of additives for sliding contact (like lifters). With all engines running roller tappets, they have reduced the amount of zinc they put in the oil. A pint of EOS can be purchased under PN 992869. A trick that we've heard of lately from the camshaft manu-facturers is to run diesel-spec engine oil for break-in. They have a much greater additive package, but you wouldn't want to run it full-time. Chevron Delo 400 Multigrade is readily available from many auto parts stores or your local Chevron dealer. Whichever way you decide to go, prime the engine with an electric drill for several minutes, and then turn the crank 90 degrees. Continue priming the engine and turning the crank 90 degrees until you have made one full revolution. This will ensure that you have lubed all rod bearings and filled each of the hydraulic lifters. When you fire the engine, follow Comp Cams' recommendation for their camshaft break-in.