Chevy Intake Manifold - Intake Shuffle-CHP-Step By Step

The intake manifold and cylinder heads on this engine call for Fel-Pro 1205 performance intake manifold gaskets. We also used a tube of Permatex RTV silicone gasket maker.

To separate the intake manifold from the engine, we carefully tapped a gasket scraper (or you could use a medium-sized screwdriver) between the intake manifold and cylinder head. It may seem redundant, but as a precaution make sure all the intake-manifold bolts have been removed and accounted for. If the intake is difficult to remove, don't force it; rather, tap the screwdriver between the opposite side of the intake manifold and cylinder head and pry upwards.

After placing paper towels into all the ports and the lifter valley, we used a gasket scraper to remove the old gaskets. For stubborn gaskets, carefully spray gasket remover (available at most auto parts stores) onto the old gaskets. You'll want to be certain to keep this product away from your hands and paint. After the gasket remover had set for about 15 minutes we used the scraper again to remove old material.

To remove stubborn gaskets and perform a final cleanup, we used a portable drill with a scuffing disc to clean the surface. As a last step we wiped the entire area with brake cleaner applied to clean towels. If you're installing a used intake manifold, don't forget to clean the bottom sides of it in the same manner.

Because some of the tapped intake manifold bolt holes aim at the pushrods, be certain that the intake bolts used are not too long. Typically, on a small-block Chevy the intake bolts should measure 1 inch in length.

We ran a thick bead of RTV silicone at both the front and rear portions of the engine block. This bead serves to replace the old-style end gaskets and, quite frankly, works better to provide a worry-free seal. Next, we added a small amount of RTV around each coolant port. If needed, Edelbrock's Gasgacinch sealant could be used around each port to hold the intake gaskets in position on each head.

We placed each new gasket onto the cylinder head, then smeared a small amount of RTV from the four corners of the front and rear beads of silicone (applied to the block) and onto the ends of both gaskets. This reduces the likelihood of oil leaks at these four corners.

Then we carefully placed the intake manifold squarely into position on the engine, making sure that right before the intake manifold was placed onto the gaskets that all the bolt holes were lined up and the manifold was even on both the front and rear areas. Once the intake manifold is down on the engine, it should not be moved more than about 11/48 inch fore or aft. Doing so may slide the gaskets out of position.

With the manifold on the engine, we installed all the intake-manifold bolts by hand and began tightening from the center bolts outward. The final torque value on each bolt should be about 25 lb-ft. Check your service manual or the bolt vendor for specific values.