Nitrous kits up to 150 hp can usually be used safely on properly tuned engines in good condition with cast pistons and cast crankshafts. If you plan to install a nitrous system that adds more than 150 hp, then forged pistons, a forged crankshaft, performance connecting rods, and stronger ignitions are highly recommended. For all nitrous applications you'll want to tune your ignition system so that the total ignition advance is reduced. For smaller nitrous kits this is typically a total advance reduction of about 2-4 degrees (1-1.5 degrees per 50hp increase). For bigger nitrous systems, you may need a capacitive discharge ignition with a programmable timing control to retard the timing at a specific rate and engine speed to prevent damage from detonation.
Spark plugs also need to be addressed and should be replaced with colder part numbers to help further prevent detonation. For systems that increase power up to 150 horses, plug ranges should be one to two steps colder than normal with the gap being reduced to 0.025-0.030 inch. Nitrous kits with 200- or 250hp increases need to go down two to three plug ranges colder.
Don't fret when those unfamiliar with the giggly stuff try to deter you. Just know that a properly installed system will provide incredible power with minimal concern for carnage and reliability. It's always smarter to start out with the lower horsepower systems, since they are much more forgiving to mistakes, but regardless of what anyone says, nitrous is the ultimate bang for the buck.
Top Ten
Nitrous Works gives us its Top 10 Nitrous Tips 1.Never attach the power leads of a 12-volt nitrous bottle heater directly to a battery. Always use a 12-volt power supply that is active only when the ignition switch is in the run position, thereby making it a fail-safe installation.
2. A nitrous bottle at 85 degrees F is at about 1,000 psi. So only leave the nitrous bottle valve open when you are using it. Leaving the valve open for long periods can potentially damage nitrous solenoid seals.
3.Never assume that fuel pressure at idle and wide-open throttle (WOT) are the same. Always check the fuel pressure at WOT and under load.
4.Always opt for Teflon paste, rather than Teflon tape, on any plumbing threads in a nitrous system. A loose piece of tape could obstruct a solenoid or jet orifice.
5.Never activate the nitrous system without having the engine running. Doing so may cause an explosion during engine starting.
6 Always follow the manufacturer's jetting and fuel pressure recommendations as a starting point when installing and tuning a nitrous system.
7.Use a WOT switch to avoid activating the system at idle or too low of an rpm, which could cause a nitrous backfire.
8. Always use filters prior to the solenoids.
9.Make sure that the fuel system has adequate supply, pressure, and volume to handle the requirements of the newly installed kit.
10.Solder any wire splices or connections, and make sure you have a solid ground connection.
Q&A #1
Q&A With Ricky Stancik Of Nitrous ExpressCHP: How much nitrous can an engine take without having to worry about damage? Ricky Stancik: Most modern-day engines can safely add up to 20 hp per cylinder.
CHP: Do I need to retard my timing?RS: In most stock EFI applications, when adding less than 20 hp per cylinder, no timing retard is necessary. On carbureted engines timing needs to be retarded 1-2 degrees per 50 hp; however, this is only a starting point and your specific application may need more or less timing depending on many factors: static compression ratio, camshaft timing, camshaft centerline, intake-manifold design, header diameter and length, converter stall, transmission type, rearend ratio, fuel type, (gasoline, methanol, ethanol, propane, nitromethane), and the octane of the gasoline you are going to use.