Yes, We Want It!Yes, I would like to see a feature article relating the myths of dynos, the entire cost, including what it costs to tune an application. A complete walk-through, from scheduling and showing up at the door through paying the bill, would be insightful.Michael L. McKenzieVia e-mail
Almost everything I have learned about engines, particularly Chevy engines, has been from your fine publication and the book you guys brought out, Small-Block Chevy Engine Build Ups. I have a two-year subscription to your awesome magazine, and when that runs out I intend to get another.
The thing I like most about your mag is the real-world approach and environments you guys test all of the products and buildups in. I think the idea you had about doing an article on dyno engine testing would be great as long as you can relate it to the real world, as I am sure you would have done anyway.Paul WilkinsonQueensland, Australia
Gas Mileage & Cheap Hot RodsA couple of years ago I took my '57 Chevy to Reno for the Hot August Nights show. Running down the freeway at 70 mph, it was revving well over 3,000 rpm. People were passing me like I was standing still. It was then I knew my next car would have an overdrive, a G-body, since they're inexpensive and have a full frame. I was looking for a '78-80 Chevelle, but I came across two complete '78 Cutlass bodies with Chevy 305s in them, one for $100 and the other for $200. I found a good frame already slag-blasted for $50 and started from there. I installed a 355ci small-block and a five-speed out of an S15 with 20,000 miles on it for only $100. I also used a factory truck intake and exhaust manifolds.
Believe me when I say that G-bodies make good cruisers, and all said and done, I completed my project for $7,000 for a total frame-off rebuild. It looks really sharp and has a lot of power while still getting decent gas mileage. If you or anybody wants any info on converting the G-bodies to standards, please get back to me.
Also, I was reading the Shop column in the Sept. '06 issue, and I wanted to share my current engine build that's going into fourth-gen Camaro. The powerplant is still in the finishing process, but it's a 400 Chevy with a standard bore that'll be bored out to 4.165. I'm also using a forged 4340 3.48-inch-stroke crankshaft with 400 mains to eliminate spacer bearings, 5.7 H-beam rods, and a set of BME flat-top pistons. It will also have splayed caps installed with a windage tray, a high-volume oil pump, and a Moroso pan. Other choice parts are a set of CNC Track 1 heads, a Victor Jr. intake, an 830-cfm Holley double-pumper, an MSD billet distributor, including a digital 6 ignition box, and 1.6 roller rockers. The only thing I need to decide on is the camshaft. Currently I have a Lunati mechanical-roller PN 50124, but I'm not sure if this is wise to run on the street. It won't be a daily driver, but a weekend cruiser and maybe once or twice to work through the week. My current thought is to go with a solid-lift cam, but I'm still a bit uncertain. Would you run a mechanical roller on the street, and if so, what would be the limits on lift and duration? Any help in this area would be much appreciated. I plan on running at the track frequently and turning it around 7,500 rpm. I'd like to run some similar numbers as the "Big Shot of Power" 377(Sept. '06) with a goal of 550 on motor and then spraying a 125-150 shot on top of that.
Is there a reason you haven't shown more 377ci builds? Do it; I'd love to see one in an upcoming issue; what about an engine challenge between a 377 and 406, heads up? I hear so much talk from the general public that the 400 is a better than the 377. I've had both and don't entirely agree; the 377 pulls harder throughout the rpm, where the 400 fell in the upper rpm range. Thanks for your time and for putting out a great magazine.Matt WyattMemphis, TN