A 327s have a very special place in my heart. Back in the '70s that's all I built, and I loved the way they winded! You've gathered up some really nice components to tease that 475hp bogy. That's only 1.44 hp per cube out of a 331 on pump gas. Let's take a swing at this thing.
First, your 327 crankshaft is a forged late-'60s large (350) journal design. It will bolt right into your 010 block with no modification. Yes, the Speed-Pro pistons will take up to 500 detonation-free horsepower. However, you've got so much money in this piece, we would step up to a set of forged pistons. This would give you a level of comfort to spin this thing to the moon. We run into a slight problem getting compression. With a 0.030-inch overbore, zero deck, 58cc chamber, 8.7cc 0.039-inch head gasket, 1.5cc ring land volume, and 8cc valve reliefs, you come up with 9.91:1 compression. To get up to your desired 10.5/11:1 squeeze you'd need to clip the heads down to 50 cc. Even with angle-milling, you will not reach this volume without running into the intake valve seats. To reach the compression you wish, you will need to run a very small, 6cc dome piston. With this you will be able to run your AFR heads as received at 64cc. With these changes your compression will come in at 10.96:1. This is a very small dome and won't affect the efficiencies of the combustion chambers.
It's very cool that you have been able to pick up the Ti pieces from your friend. This will give you added valvetrain stability from the lightweight components. As for the camshaft, I would recommend going with a mechanical roller rather than the hydraulic. With all the killer Ti pieces, keep the valvetrain light with a mechanical roller. To reach your power bogy you will need a rather large camshaft for your little engine. Checking in the Comp line like you asked, we zeroed in on the Xtreme Energy Mechanical Roller PN 12-773-8. This nasty camshaft comes in at 254/260 duration at 0.050 inch lift, 0.582/0.588 inch max lift with 1.5 rockers, and is ground on 110 centers. This is a "bottom of the page" listing in the Xtreme Energy line. These duration numbers run really well in mid-build drag-race engines. They make killer torque and run well up stairs. The 1.6 rockers will kick the duration a couple of degrees, and the max lift up to 0.620/0.627 inch. With the titanium valves and components, you should be able to step up the rocker ratio.
Now that we've kicked up the camshaft you will need a few more rpm in that torque converter. 2,800 rpm would be an absolute minimum and you should push it up to 3,200. Also, the Performer RPM Air Gap is going to limit the top-end breathing of this engine. We would go with a Victor Jr. PN 2975 and a 2-inch open-plenum spacer. Yes, you will give away a few pound-feet of torque at slower engine speeds, but the single-plane will sing upstairs. Speaking of airflow, you will need a 750-cfm carburetor for this animal. Our Air Dyno says that the 400 lb-ft is very real, but the 475 hp is going to take some tuning work. Horsepower peak will be over 7,000 rpm, probably closer to the 7,500-rpm range. This is another reason to step into forged pistons.
What should you tell your machinist? Keep it simple. Check the block thoroughly for cracks and sonic-check the cylinder walls for core shift. Yes, the 0.030-inch overbore will leave the cylinder walls with enough meat, but ring seal will be very important to reach your power bogy. Make sure they use a torque plate to bore and hone the block, and leave ample material for finishing honing. Use ARP studs throughout. Line-hone the mains to resize them properly after stud installation, and to ensure a very straight housing bore. That crankshaft spinning at 7,500 rpm doesn't want to kiss any bearings.