For most of the remaining engine removal work, you'll want to wear heavy gloves. After unbolting the fan shroud and the fan, grab them both together and remove them at the same time from the engine compartment. With the hoses and trans lines disconnected, remove the radiator and place it in a safe place. Don't lean it against a wall with the openings facing the wall, because any remaining fluids will run onto the ground. It's also a good idea to stuff paper towels into the coolant-hose openings and attach the radiator cap to the top of the radiator. This will serve to protect the inside from outside objects and debris.
Disconnect all of the wiring including the ignition cables, coil wires, wires from the firewall to the engine and alternator, and those to the starter. Next remove all of the front engine accessories: power-steering pump, alternator, pulleys, and brackets. The power-steering pump should be tied up and away from the area in front of the engine. If you're uncertain of where certain items will go during the installation, tape and label the ends with a piece of masking tape.
Next you'll need to get under the car and remove the exhaust pipes. For this, be sure to wear eye protection because the pipes and undercarriage are loaded with dirt, rust, and small debris that can land in your eye. This step alone can save you from spending the rest of the day at your local emergency clinic. To loosen the exhaust, spray the manifold studs or header bolts with a liberal amount of lubricant. Don't be tempted to break the bolts or nuts loose with an impact, unless you want to risk breaking a stud. Once the bolt or nut is broken loose, it is usually OK to slowly loosen the fasteners with an impact wrench. Now pull the head pipes down. If the engine is equipped with headers, they'll now need to be unbolted from the engine.
Before unbolting anything else, the engine should be supported with the engine crane. Next, survey where and how you're going to store the old engine. A good temporary place is on an old tire (dismounted from the rim). This will typically keep the engine (if placed squarely) from rolling over. The best place, though, is on a wooden crate designed to hold an engine or on an engine stand. Sometimes larger GM dealers or large engine machine shops will have old wooden engine crates (ready to discard). Now remove the carburetor. To attach the engine sling, install two 31/48-inch bolts with large washers bolted deeply through each end diagonally to the front and rear of each opposing cylinder head.
To remove an old gasket from this thermostat housing, we applied some of Permatex's Silicone Stripper. After a few minutes the old gasket was softened and scraped off easily. | 
We installed a Fel-Pro thermostat gasket and a new thermostat and tightened the 31/48-16 bolts to 20 ft-lb. |  |