Before unbolting anything else, the engine should be supported with the engine crane. Next, survey where and how you're going to store the old engine. A good temporary place is on an old tire (dismounted from the rim). This will typically keep the engine (if placed squarely) from rolling over. The best place, though, is on a wooden crate designed to hold an engine or on an engine stand. Sometimes larger GM dealers or large engine machine shops will have old wooden engine crates (ready to discard). Now remove the carburetor. To attach the engine sling, install two 31/48-inch bolts with large washers bolted deeply through each end diagonally to the front and rear of each opposing cylinder head.
With the engine crane's chain taut, unbolt the two through-bolts on each side motor mount. Then, with an assistant, raise the motor from the engine bay. Make certain that the engine is not allowed to swing into the windshield. Remove the engine from the engine bay and carefully release the hydraulic jack on the hoist to lower the engine safely to its resting place. Now it's time to survey and repair the engine's support items.
Keep It Cool
The cooling system consists of the radiator, cooling fan, fan drive, hoses, radiator cap, and belts. To check the condition of the radiator, inspect it for leaks around both the upper and lower hose attachments. Also inspect where the tanks are soldered to the core, and inside for corrosion buildup that can block the coolant from circulating inside the radiator. If you have doubts, take the radiator to a shop for cleaning and repair.
Inspect the cap and replace it if it is more than a 5 years old. Radiator caps are designed to pressurize the cooling system. This is because if the water or coolant inside of a radiator were left open to the atmosphere (nonpressurized), the water temperature would never be able to rise above 212 degrees F (100 C). When the system is pressurized, the boiling point is raised and the cooling effect to the engine becomes greater. If the cap's pressure spring or relief valve becomes ineffective, the cooling system's performance will be marginalized.
If your original electrical system was exhibiting starting or charging difficulties with the old engine, then now is the best time to repair or replace the alternator, starter, or other components that are causing the problem. If you're restoring a musclecar, it's typically best to have your original starter or alternator overhauled at a re-builder so that you can retain the factory-numbered components. For other performance applications, higher-torque starters and higher-output alternators are available in the aftermarket to improve electrical performance.
Here's a handy checklist to use before your initial startup
|* New hoses, easily installed by applying spray lubricant first then tightening with new clamps, $30|
|* New belts, adjusted properly, $30|
|* New fuel line, $8|
|* New spark plugs, $15|
|* Check throttle linkage wide-open travel and return|
|* Distributor installed so that No. 1 cylinder fires at 8-degrees BTC|
|* 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, $20|
|* New thermostat, $10|
|* Engine oil level full, $12|
|* New oil filter, $7|
|* Wire routed away from exhaust and throttle linkage|
|* Pulley alignment correct|
|* New M&H plug-in engine harness to replace worn-out and repaired original harness, $100-$150|