Checkin' Install Heights
Place the install-height tool over the valve with the retainer and locks. Twist the tool until it expands and the locks snap around the top stem of the valve. Tighten until the tool will no longer turn. This is your new install height. The exhaust valve's install height sat at 2.090 inches. Subtract the 1.900 spring height from this value. This new total will be the amount of shims added. Basically, the goal is to get the height to most closely match the 1.900 height of the new spring. While you could get away with just checking one intake and one exhaust valve, you're better off taking the time to check each one. Yes, it'll take some time, but you'll be better off in the long run.
Example: 2.090 - 1.900 = 0.190 (new shim height)
Keepin' Order
Since this big-block ran solid flat-tappets, we made sure to keep the lifters in order when removing them. As a tip, number them as they're removed from the lifter valley. This way, the cam and lifters can easily be reused later on down the road. | 
With the heads on, it was time for the cam. Because of the solid roller design, there was no need for special cam lube; 30W oil would work just fine. We spread the oil liberally onto each cam journal before placing it into the block. With the cam in place, we spun it over to be sure it didn't hit the piston rods and that it wasn't making contact with anything but the bearings. | 
Next, we soaked the ends of the lifters in oil. Consolo suggests dunking the lifter and rolling the lifter wheels along the bottom of the oil tray until no more bubbles rise to the surface. This allows the oil to seep into the needle bearings of the axle on the lifter. We then placed the lifters in the block with the lifter bars facing toward the center of the block. |
As components in the valvetrain are changed or replaced, not only will the heights and tolerances need to be checked, but the pushrod length will also need to be looked into after a cam swap. We used an adjustable pushrod length checker, placing it in through the head until it nested in the lifter. We placed the rocker on top and adjusted the checker until the rocker reached its desired location. We then pulled it out and measured the length with 12-inch calipers. You'll only need to do this for one intake valve and one exhaust valve; there's no need to check every cylinder. | 
We marked the top of the valve with a Sharpie. We pushed on the rocker and turned it back and forth until the wheel of the rocker wiped away the Sharpie ink. Optimal distance for the rocker wheel is just before the center of the top of the valve. Too far forward and the rocker may walk right off the stem of the valve at high rpm. Too far back and it can collide with the retainers. | 
The big-block was spun until the timing gear could be lined up properly. The gear was bolted on, but not before the Crower cam thrust button was installed. |
Once the pushrods found their final resting places, the rockers were next. They were lashed 0.026/0.026, intake/exhaust, and tightened down. | 
The final steps of this build involved bolting down the intake manifold, timing cover, pan, and valve covers. | |