Pushrods can get overlooked when putting together a valvetrain, but using good, stiff rods is critical to maintaining valvetrain stability. Stock pushrods don't cut it in any performance application; Crane's three-piece pushrods are a significant step up, and its one-piece, heat-treated chrome-moly pieces are better still. It's also important to always measure for pushrod length using an adjustable tool like the one shown.
For the ultimate in upper valvetrain stiffness, of course, only a shaft-mount rocker arm system will do, and these setups are a Jesel specialty. The rocker arms are locked into a single bar running across the head, keeping rocker arm flex--and the resulting losses in duration, lift, and therefore performance--at an absolute minimum. If you're working the track and turning high rpm, shaft mounts should be considered. Jesel's setups start at about $800.
Timing chains stretch over time, so it's always a good idea to install a new chain and sprocket set like these Crane pieces when swapping in a new cam. The traditional small-block set on the left is a three-position piece, which allows the cam to be installed straight-up, 4 degrees retarded, or 4 degrees advanced. The billet sprocket LS1/LS6 timing set on the right allows for 5 degrees of adjustment either way by simply loosening the six Allen-head bolts and rotating the cam sprocket.
Speaking of advancing or retarding... As we've noted earlier, a cam's intake/exhaust centerline is the theoretical maximum lift point on the lobe, expressed in degrees after TDC. This centerline is used to tie the valve timing to the crankshaft rotation. Almost all our cam experts agree that cams tend to run best with a bit of advance in place, so the 'sticks come ground to deliver this advance when installed in the straight-up position. A multiple-position timing set allows you to move the intake centerline forward or back. What happens if you advance or retard the cam? With the former, the rpm range is moved down; with the latter, it's shifted upward. Knight recommends always starting out at the straight-up position. "You can refine from there," he says, "but if you're seeing a benefit from moving more than 8 degrees advanced or any degrees of retard from 0, you don't have the right cam."