Moving forward in our rear-to-front strategy, make sure the driveshaft and U-joints are beefy enough for the job. Nobody has to remind you about the need for a driveshaft safety loop. Nobody, that is, except for the NHRA tech inspector (if he sees slicks on the back axle). If you're running a manual transmission, make sure the clutch and pressure plate are fresh and contained by an approved scattershield with a block-saver plate. We've seen plenty of perfectly good blocks go to the scrap heap after chunks are knocked loose by flying clutch parts. Motor mounts are also a classic trouble spot on clutch cars. Worn-out mounts let the left side of the motor lift a bunch and can even bind mechanical throttle and clutch linkages with spooky results. Get fresh mounts, maybe even step up to a solid mount on the driver side of the block if you won't mind a little vibration at cruise speeds.
Automatic transmission users must make sure the clutches are healthy enough to handle added power without slipping. Maybe now's the time to freshen things up with a basic rebuild kit. Another detail to consider is a properly matched torque converter. Vehicle weight, cam timing, axle ratio, and engine displacement are all key specs you must provide to your converter supplier so you get the right unit for your combination. When it comes to choosing a stall speed, street guys should be thinking about speeds ranging from 1,800 to 2,800, occasional strip trippers should consider 2,500-3,500, and weekend warriors will want to start at 3,500 and work up from there.
Generally speaking, increased stall speed allows engine rpm to rise into the fat part of the torque curve so there's more grunt available to move the car on the launch. But remember to always err on the side of caution. Too much stall speed can put the engine past its ideal rpm spot and actually dull the launch while generating wasteful slippage and heat on the boulevard. And naturally, be sure to plumb in a transmission fluid cooler any time stall speed is increased over the stock level.
Flying directly in the face of our somewhat conservative ground rules, Morgan's Nova runs an 8-inch Munsinger Stock Eliminator converter in front of its manual valvebody Turbo 400. Coupled to the 600hp 414 stroker small-block previously powering the car, it stalled at 6,200 rpm against the transbrake. But with the comparatively modest 442 hp and 436 lb-ft generated by this 383, foot braking delivered a 4,000 stall speed and surprisingly pleasant street manners. Sure, the mill winds up a bit before the car starts rolling in traffic, but it isn't as obnoxious as we feared it might be. All told, we're pleased with how the 383 runs and drives. CHP

Joe Jill Jr. made several...

Joe Jill Jr. made several pulls on the chassis dyno, all of which were within a hair of the top 353 hp/331 lb-ft readings. Superior charges $200 for a before/after dyno session and includes ignition and carburetor tuning in the deal.

The importance of a well-sorted...

The importance of a well-sorted car is clearly evident here. The wheels-up stance is proof of total adhesion.
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