Build Your First Chevy Engine - How to Build Your First Engine

These are the major components we'll be working with on this 355. The Scat cast crank is matched with a set of forged 4340 steel rods, Federal-Mogul hypereutectic pistons, a mild Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 262 cam, and an Edelbrock intake.

Before you clean the block for the last time, consider tapping the front three oil galley plugs for ¼-inch screw-in plugs. Tap the holes just deep enough to place the plugs flush with the front of the block.

As part of our pre-assembly measuring procedures, we measured the crank and rods and established our rod and main-bearing clearances at 0.0025 to 0.0028 inch. The No. 5 thrust main bearing can use a clearance of slightly over 0.003 inch because of the wider bearing to lube the thrust surfaces.

After the machine shop has finished all its operations, bring the block home and clean it thoroughly, especially inside the cam-bearing journals to remove any grit. Then return to the shop and have the cam bearings installed. Before you take the block home, check the cam to ensure it will fit. We've actually had a new cam bind where a used cam fit perfectly! If there's a tight bearing, it's easier to fix while you're at the machine shop.

Don't forget to check to see if the small, press-in plug is installed in the hole adjacent to the No. 5 main cap. If this is left out, the engine will experience low oil pressure and completely bypass the oil filter. Also install the plug in the deck surface on the driver side at the rear. If you forget this plug, it cannot be installed with the head on the block.

The last thing to do before final assembly is give it a hot bath using soapy water and long brushes to clean the oil galleys. Do the same for the crank, rods and pistons, and any other internal engine components. Dry everything with compressed air, and don't use rags because they leave lint behind that will clog the oil filter.