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How to Build Your First Engine



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If you are using file-to-fit rings, you will need to check each ring and cut them to fit. If using standard rings, it's still a good idea to check the ring endgap for the top and second rings and record the data.		http://images.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0309_engine_15_s.jpg
ARP sells aluminum "chopsticks" that guide the rod over the crank and prevent nicking the journal, but these small rubber boots also work well and are often free where you buy new bearings. You can also use a length of 3/8-inch rubber fuel line.		http://images.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0309_engine_16_s.jpg
Orient the rings with the top and second rings 180 degrees apart. This prevents lining up the rings and increasing leakage by giving cylinder pressure an easy path to escape. A is the top compression ring, B is the second compression ring, C are the oil-ring rails, and D is the oil-ring separator gap that can fall anywhere in that 90-degree arc.
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Tapered rings compressors are the best way to slide the pistons into the bores. This means having to purchase a different tool for every bore size, but they're worth the ease of assembly. Be sure the rod is oriented properly with the chamfer on the big end of the rod toward the crank cheek.		http://images.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0309_engine_18_s.jpg
Once all the pistons are in place but not yet torqued, take the time to recheck your rod side clearance with a feeler gauge. The spec is between 0.009 and 0.013 inch.		http://images.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0309_engine_19_s.jpg
Now is the time to set the rod-bolt stretch. We're using a set of ARP rod bolts with a stretch spec of 0.0063 inch using an ARP stretch gauge. If you don't have one of these tools--find one. If you are faced with no choice but to torque, torque each bolt to its spec using the recommended ARP lube at least five times.
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