
You can expect to spend at...

You can expect to spend at least an hour cleaning the block. Do this right before assembly.

Some builders like ring-spreader...

Some builders like ring-spreader tools, but weve broken rings with these. We prefer to spiral the rings on the pistons. Install the oil rings first, then the second ring, followed by the top compression ring.

The best tool for installing...

The best tool for installing pistons is the tapered ring compressor. Powerhouse, ARP, and others sell the tools that make installing pistons a breeze.

These rod-bolt protectors...

These rod-bolt protectors from ARP align the rod over the crank. Those small plastic covers also work well to prevent nicking the crank.

Once the cam and crank are...

Once the cam and crank are in place and the mains torqued, you can assemble the rings on the pistons based on these drawings. The idea is to space the ring end gaps so they dont line up and create a leakage path.

The only way to properly torque...

The only way to properly torque the rod bolts is with a rod-bolt stretch gauge. Typical ARP bolt stretch is around 0.006 inch.

With the timing chain and...

With the timing chain and gears installed, this is a great time to degree the cam before the heads are installed. With todays high-quality parts, weve found that the majority of the time the cam is right where its supposed to be.

Torque the heads on in a circular...

Torque the heads on in a circular fashion starting with the center head bolt. Most engine builders prefer to torque the head bolts in three stages, starting at 35 ft-lbs, then 45 ft-lbs, and finally 60 ft-lbs of torque. Be sure to coat the bolt threads with sealant to prevent leaks.

If you dont have a special...

If you dont have a special tool to install the harmonic damper, you can use a longer fine-thread crank bolt to pull the damper in place. You could also use a large hammer and a block of wood, but thats troglodyte tech. You know better than that. This tool comes from Powerhouse.

Be sure to seal the intake...

Be sure to seal the intake gaskets to the heads using Permatex sealant. Then you can seal the intake end rails using a bead of Permatex silicone rather than the supplied end-rail gaskets that tend to push out and leak.

After the intake is installed,...

After the intake is installed, always pre-lube the engine before firing it up. This is great insurance and worth the effort.
Engines and horsepower are what hot rodders live for, and nothings more gratifying than building the engine yourself. Theres nothing more satisfying than hearing that engine run for the first time after youve spent hours carefully massaging the powerplant. If youve never built an engine before, were here to help you get there. Its really not that difficult. It all comes down to spending a little more time to line up all the tools youll need along with the patience to assemble it correctly.
Chances are you wont have all the tools necessary to perform all the recommended operations in this story. That doesnt give you a back door to skip these procedures. That just means youll need to beg, borrow, or rent these tools and learn how to use them properly. If you have buddies who are engine builders, then they probably have the tools and would be willing to show you how to use them. Maybe you could also talk them into looking over your shoulder as you assemble your engine. Its worth the effort, and you can always trade out their help by offering to help work on one of their projects.
Wed also suggest reading other stories on engine building, and buying books on building a small-block Chevy. The books can go into much more detail than we can in this story, and its the details that will make your engine buildup completely successful. Weve covered the major points here that, if overlooked, can cause engine failure. We did not go into detail on starting the engine for the first time, but this is a critical part as well.
For starters, always pre-lube the engine. You can build a pre-luber out of an old distributor body and shaft. Also make sure the ignition timing is set at about 12-degrees BTDC and the carb is primed. That way the engine should only have to turn over once or twice before it fires. Then immediately bring the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 rpm, varying the rpm for the first 15 minutes. Monitor the coolant temperature and oil pressure and youre on your way.
So cruise through this how-to-build-it story and start planning your next engine. Then you can proudly claim, Yeah, I built this myself when the cruisin spectators ask, Who built the engine? Its a great feeling of accomplishment.
Assembly
A clean engine is a happy engine and you cant get the engine too clean. Moroso, Mr. Gasket, and others sell engine-cleaning brushes that can scrub internal oil galleys and bolt holes to flush out metal chips left over from machining. Use hot water and laundry detergent and then blow-dry the engine immediately to prevent the formation of surface rust. Clean every internal engine component, including rods and pistons, crank, oil pan, heads (unless they are already assembled), cam, and timing-chain cover. Dont use cloth shop rags or towels because they leave lint that will plug up an oil filter. Finally, weve found that cleaning the cylinder walls with paper towels soaked with automatic transmission fluid deep-cleans the last residual junk out of the cylinder walls. Keep wiping until the paper towel remains clean.