
It took us less than four...

It took us less than four hours and only $575 to upgrade the brakes on this Pro Touring 12-bolt with a rear disc brake kit from Stainless Steel Brakes (PN A125). Performance Suspension Technology (PST) offers a similar kit for Camaros starting at $579, which includes an adjustable proportioning valve.

We installed the kit on this...

We installed the kit on this Camaro 12-bolt housing outside the car for photographic clarity. The brakes can easily be installed with the rearend still under the car. The Stainless Brakes kit is designed to mount cast-iron calipers behind the housing with steel shields protecting the front half of the rotors.

You need to remove the brake...

You need to remove the brake drum, unscrew the factory brake line from the wheel cylinder, and unhook the parking brake cable before removing the axles and backing plates in preparation for installing the new caliper brackets.

Pull the rear cover off and...

Pull the rear cover off and drain the fluid. Then, unbolt and remove the cross shaft and C-clips to pull the axles out. The Stainless Brakes kit is designed to work with stock axles using C-clips. Be sure to let the manufacturer know if youre using a C-clip eliminator kit when ordering your brakes because this modification may make mounting rear discs impossible.

The Stainless Brakes kit utilizes...

The Stainless Brakes kit utilizes a cast-iron mounting bracket and a split steel rings to locate the bracket positively on the axle housing. The split ring required some clearancing on the bench grinder before we could press them in using a steel punch and hammer. We also had to grind off all the paint and completely deburr the axle housings end before the rings would fit. Be sure to thread in all four bolts before hammering in the split rings. Once installed, the bracket is solidly located on the housing.

The drivers side housing...

The drivers side housing end plate required some grinding to clear the cast-iron caliper bracket. A die grinder and carbide burr took care of this in 30 seconds. You could accomplish the same using a flat file.

The disc shields required...

The disc shields required some minor trimming with tin snips before bolting them onto the inboard side of the caliper mounting brackets.

The calipers go on next and,...

The calipers go on next and, following the instructions included, we bolted the caliper marked LH on the right side and the RH caliper on the left. The parking brake cable bracket is secured under one of the caliper mounting bolts and we had to stack a couple of washers (arrow) under the bracket to clear the factory countersink (not visible) that is machined for the bolt head.

We torqued the caliper mounting...

We torqued the caliper mounting bolts to 50 ft-lbs. The metric bolts included in the kit come with a thread locking compound applied to the threads and should not be loosened and retorqued repeatedly.

The included rubber brake...

The included rubber brake hoses get attached next and must be oriented with the machined step on the brass block fitting facing out toward the bleeder valve, in order to allow the fitting to seal correctly. Use the included copper washers and torque the block fitting to 10-15 ft.-lbs. Note that there are now two bleeder screws. Always bleed the brakes from the screw located highest on the caliper to allow air to escape when bleeding.

The parking brake cable gets...

The parking brake cable gets slipped in next. It is very easy to install, but may require you to loosen the adjusting nut on the other end of the cable to produce enough slack for installation.

The last step of the installation...

The last step of the installation is to bleed the new calipers. We used a clear glass jar partly filled with new brake fluid and a hose submerged in it with the other end connected directly to the bleeder valve. That way, no air can get back into the system when bleeding, and its very easy to see when all the bubbles have been purged from the system. Now is a good time to completely flush and replace your old fluid with new high-performance DOT 4 brake fluid.

Most of the low-cost rear...

Most of the low-cost rear disc brake kits dont include an adjustable proportioning valve but consider one a necessity. Plumb the valve inline to the rear brakes and adjust it just below the threshold of rear wheel lockup under the hardest braking conditions. Dont forget that you can change your proportioning valve settings at any time to counteract adverse varying vehicle changes or road conditions like wet pavement. Most people install, adjust once, and forget it, but youd be wise to take advantage of your new-found adjustability to get the best braking possible.
Building fast cars has traditionally involved adapting or modifying factory parts that were never intended to go fast. These parts, after being subjected to a hot rodders adaptation, usually end up on someones vehicle trying to perform a task they were never designed to accomplish. Nowhere is this more prevalent than with rear disc brakes. If your early musclecar came with front discs from the factory, or you have previously upgraded your front brakes, nows the time to put discs in the rear.
In the past, if you wanted rear discs for your car you had two choices: spend six-months salary on the baddest racing rear-wheel disc brake setup, or custom build your own brake system using obscure factory rear discs and calipers from something like a Corvette. Since then, automotive enlightenment has progressed into braking systems. Today, you can upgrade any vintage GM car or truck with a brand new rear disc brake system starting around $500.
Aftermarket To The Rescue
The performance aftermarket has blessed us with the development of rear wheel disc brake kits designed as direct bolt-on replacements for early GM iron. You can now install a properly engineered rear disc brake system using all new components that will not only improve your cars braking ability, but look hot as well. We found several rear disc kits offered for early musclecars such as Chevelles, Camaros, Novas, and trucks too that can be installed in a day without special tools or equipment. All the kits featured here have parking brake capabilities, and most even work with the factory parking brake cables. Beware of less expensive kits that dont offer parking brake capabilities.
Most kits we found do not come with an adjustable proportioning valve. We recommend purchasing one separately if thats the case. An adjustable proportioning valve can even improve the braking ability of a stock drum brakeequipped car and is a requirement for fine tuning a new four-wheel discequipped brake system.
Affordable Rear Disc Brakes
We researched the market and found rear disc brake kits ranging from a low of $499 up to about $800. The lower-cost kits we found usually included cast-iron calipers, vented steel one-piece rotors, steel or cast-iron caliper-mounting brackets, and all the hardware and brake hoses needed for installation. The higher-cost kits include cast or billet aluminum calipers, vented-steel rotors (some mounted on aluminum hubs to save weight), high-performance brake pads, and all the necessary hardware and stainless brake lines. The most expensive kit we found cost $795 from Master Power and uses cast-aluminum calipers made by PBR of Australia, which were originally designed for fourth-generation Corvettes and the 1LE Camaro. Baer Racing also offers the PBR calipers in its new Rod & Drag rear disc brake upgrade kit for 10- and 12-bolt rearends starting at around $600.
Big Wheels
One of the biggest concernsand expenseswhen upgrading your brake system is whether the new components will clear your wheels. Big brakes mean tall rotors, calipers, and headaches if they rub on your 15-inch billet wheels. Well, therere no worries about that in most of the kits we found. Most inexpensive rear disc brake upgrade kits are designed to fit inside a minimum 15-inch wheel. Some, like the Baer kit, will even clear those 14-inch Rally wheels you are so attached to. It would be wise to check directly with the brake kit manufacturer before making your purchase, otherwise you may end up spending more money on new wheels and tires just to clear the brakes.
Properly Proportioned
Some really inexpensive kits are designed to adapt factory front disc brake calipers to the rear axle using steel adapter plates. Not only is this a bad idea because front brakes dont have parking brake capability, but front calipers are designed for the front of cars where about 60 to 70 percent of all the braking effort takes place. The heavier the car, the more braking the front does. When you adapt a front caliper to the rear, youre going to overpower the rear brakes by virtue of the large piston calipers, which could cause rear-wheel lock-up.
One manufacturer we spoke with, who was against this practice, admitted they tried using identical front and rear calipers on a road race test car. It took three adjustable proportioning valves mounted in series to reduce rear brake pressure enough to keep the rear wheels from locking up. A good rule of thumb for properly proportioned brake calipers is to use rear calipers with a total piston surface area less than 65 percent of the front calipers. Todays new rear disc brake kits are safe and trick. When installed and valved properly, they help your car stop better and improve braking consistency, which is critical to high-speed cornering and road race performance. They also let everyone know youre serious about stopping.