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It's Proportional

How To Install And Tune A Brake Proportioning Valve
By Jeff Smith
Photography by Jeff Smith
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During CHP’s latest 0-100-0 shootout (Slam Dance), Craig Boone discovered how an improperly balanced rear braking system could ruin your whole day. When the rear brakes lock up, it’s almost impossible to maintain control of the vehicle.
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This is a Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve. The valve is plumbed into the rear brake line to limit rear brake pressure. The knurled knob allows roughly 10 turns of adjustment to cut the rear pressure by roughly 50 percent. Turning the knob clockwise increases rear brake pressure.
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This illustrates where the brake proportioning valve should be located—between the master cylinder and the rear brakes.
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Production cars usually come with something called a combination valve that includes both a brake pressure warning light and a fixed rear brake proportioning valve.
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This is the Baer brake proportioning valve on Tim Moore’s ’67 Chevelle located directly below the master cylinder where it is easy to adjust.
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This is Stainless Steel Brakes’ Superstop brake-gauge kit. The kit comes with a 3,000-psi gauge and six different bleeder screw adapters to allow you to connect the pressure gauge to both SAE and metric calipers to measure hydraulic line pressure.
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Using the Stainless Steel Brakes Superstop brake-gauge kit, we measured the front brake-line pressure in Moore’s car. Maximum brake pressure at the caliper was a little over 1,500 psi—more than enough to lock up the front tires.
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Maximum rear brake pressure on Moore’s Chevelle was 1,400 psi. Using the Baer proportioning valve, we could cut this down to as little as 700 psi.
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If you are going to build your own brake lines, you need to be able to make your own 45-degree double flares. Inline Tube sells these pro-quality Rigid flaring and tube-bending tools to make the job much easier. The flaring tube accommodates 3/16- through 1/2-inch tubes all contained in a handy plastic case. Inline Tube can also supply prebent stainless or mild-steel tubing to fit almost any Chevy application.
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Rear tire diameter can make a big difference in rear brake performance. Adding a taller rear tire will upset the rear brake balance, because a taller tire increases the leverage the brakes have over the tire by increasing the distance between the axle centerline and the ground.

Since we deal with modified cars, even something as simple as adding taller rear tires can have a drastic effect on braking performance. Taller tires increase the distance between the rear axle centerline and the ground, increasing the leverage of the brakes over the tires. This was most evident with Tim Moore’s car on the 0-100-0 shootout last month when, even though he carefully set the brake balance for his shorter set of tires, the taller drag slicks caused a rear brake lockup problem. Moore solved the problem by reducing the rear brake pressure by several hundred psi.

Most adjustable brake proportioning valves are very simple devices designed to fit between the master cylinder and the rear brake line. The valve offers a range of adjustment that decreases master-cylinder pressure down to a preset minimum. Most valves reduce the master-cylinder pressure by turning the valve clockwise.

The most difficult part of installing a brake proportioning valve is making a new line or two to place the proportioning valve in the hydraulic system. This usually only requires cutting the rear line and making a couple of 45-degree flares on each end of the tubing to create a leak-proof seal. The best place to put the proportioning valve is adjacent to the master cylinder where it is easily accessible.

Once the valve is in place, you should first test to ensure that all air is bled out of the hydraulic system. A soft or spongy brake pedal is a good indicator of air in the system that must be bled in order to create maximum brake performance. Once the system is properly bled, it’s time to set the proper brake-pressure bias. The safest procedure is to take the car to a long, wide stretch of highway with no traffic where you can safely perform repeated 60-0–mph brake tests.

Before testing, be sure to minimize the rear brake pressure by turning the proportioning valve completely counterclockwise. At slow speeds (around 30 mph) perform several tests to ensure that the brakes work properly. Since the front brakes are responsible for the majority of brake performance, the car should still stop safely at slow speeds. Crank the prop valve two turns and perform the 30-mph test again. Keep increasing rear brake pressure until the rears lock up before the front brakes, then return to the highest rear brake pressure setting that did not lock up the rear brakes first.

Once these low-speed tests have been finalized, test the brakes at 50 mph, >> applying brake pressure gradually at first and then more aggressively to determine that the rear brakes do not lock up first. Remember to give the brakes a chance to cool by driving at a steady speed for a mile or so after each test. If the rear brakes begin to lock up, immediately reduce brake pressure to prevent loss of control. Just because the rear brakes don’t lock up first at 30 mph doesn’t eliminate the chance that they might lock up at 60 mph in an emergency-stop situation. It is critical that the rear brakes do not lock up first under any circumstances since this could lead to a loss of control. Obviously, with enough brake pressure, all four wheels can lock up, but we are looking for the rears to lock up only after the front brakes do.

Baer Racing
Phoenix
AZ

www.baer.com
Master Power Brakes
www.mpbrakes.com
CPP Classic Performance Products
Buena Park
CA  90621
Stainless Steel Brakes
www.ssbrakes.com
INLINE TUBE
33783 Groesbeck Hwy., Dept. SC
Fraser, MI 48026
Wilwood Engineering
Camarillo
CA

www.wilwood.com

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