Z-Car Runner
Q I've never written for advice before. I have always just worked through problems and often spent more money han necessary. After reading your responses to others' questions, I'm confident you won't find mine stupid. I appreciate that!
My 240Z has a small-block Chevy, a Corvette rearend with a 3.75:1 gearset, and a Richmond six-speed with a 0.62 final drive ratio. The car weighs approximately 2,300 pounds. The engine in it now is stock -and very tired. I plan to replace it shortly, but there are so many choices out there. I hope you can advise me on which route to take. The car will not be used for drag racing, but is being built to be a Corvette killer and have a little fun with the tuner crowd. It will see periodic highway use and, of course, cost is a consideration, but $5-9K for an engine is within my budget. I have every thing but the long-block. Dealing with a unibody, I am a little concerned about torque. I'm willing to install a 'cage, but that affects comfort. Also, I am connecting the frame this winter, so that much will be done, but the 'cage is something I would like to avoid.
Do I go for the torque-monster 383-434 (and subsequent 'cage), or do I stay with a shorter stroke and get something that will rev quick (302-350)? If you were building a car for this purpose with my budget, what would you do to maximize your fun?
Alan HaleMemphis, TN
A I think if all of us had stopped for a minute and asked a few questions, we'd all be a little be wealthier. I know I would be. Also, this is a great question with many points to work out. I just hope I don't throw too big of a wrench into your plans.
I have a very large soft spot in my heart for small-block-powered Z-cars. Back in the day, when I had McClelland Automotive, I took care of a customer's '71 Scarab Z-car. These were built by Scarab Automobiles in San Jose, California, which produced approximately 250 finished cars that were upgraded with blueprinted 327s, T-10 four-speeds, Koni struts and shocks, heavier antiroll bars, Teflon bush ings, and stiffer front springs. You could order the cars in total stealth mode with no body kit-or with full-blown spoilers and air dams to personalize your Z. This was in the early '80s, and I'll never forget driving that car. A bunch of my buddies have small-block-powered drag race Z-cars. They run mid to low 10s with very mild small-block 350s. Lightweight is a wonderful thing.
What would we do to maximize the fun? We'd drop the Gen I small-block for an LS2 all-aluminum small-block. You'd be shedding several pounds over the Gen I small-block. Also, if you look around the junkyards online and find a '05 LS2 from a Corvette or GTO, swap in a GMPP Hot cam or similar, a set of headers, and your driveline, you would have one very quick Z-car. This will give you a very streetable 500 hp at the crank and 400 ponies to the ground. Many have been built, and the components are now becoming readily available. Check with Johns Cars for engine mounts. Then go to Jags that Run for a set of 13/4x3-inch four-tube headers and air-intake system. Everything else is straight forward. You should have no problem attaching your Richmond six-speed to the back of the LS2 with the proper flywheel. Centerforce can help with that. The bell housing bolt pattern is no problem; you just have to make up for the crankshaft flange being 0.400 inch shorter from the bellhousing face.
I know you said you have everything except the long-block for your small-block, but you'll barely touch your budget with this swap. This will give you a great, balanced street sleeper. You will get the torque you're looking for with the high-winding performance of a little small-block.
Sources
centerforce.com
jagsthatrun.com
johnscars.com