To swap the Vortec 350 into your little 10 we recommend getting in contact with the guys at Jaguars That Run. Yes, I know you're working on an S-10 pickup, but Mike Knell and his folks have been building engine swap kits for many years, starting with a nice small-block conversion for the Jaguars. They also offer swap manuals and components for Datsun Z-cars, Chevy Astro vans, and Volvo 200 and 700 models. The S-10 V-8 conversion manual is now on its 14th edition and runs more than 200 pages. It guides you through the pitfalls of emissions legalities, wiring and computer selection, and cooling system recommendations. The manuals are incredibly complete with GM part numbers for everything from exhaust manifolds to sensors and connectors, and also proven aftermarket components that they have tested.
Source: jagsthatrun.com
Stock Head Holdout
Q I want to build my '66 Chevy Nova two-door sedan to do a little weekend racing and street bullying. Currently I have a 383 stroker bored 0.030 over with Keith Black Hypers, forged 5.7-inch rods, a cast steel crank, '71 camel-hump heads with 2.02-/1.60-inch valves (ported and polished), and 1.5/1.6 all-steel roller rockers. The cam specs are as follows: 334/334 advertised duration, 238/238 degrees duration at 0.050-inch tappet lift, 0.498-/0.498-inch max lift, 108-degree LSA ground on a 104 intake centerline. This is confusing to me, as my engine builder/machinist failed to come up with an adequate cam card. I really don't know what is in this thing. I'm hoping to reach 425 hp and a lot of torque. Any help would be appreciated. Oh yeah, I'm running a TH350 trans with a shift kit and a 3,000-stall converter, a 750 Holley mechanical secondary carb, and a 3.73:1 posi rearend. Thanks for your help.
Ben HarrisonVia e-mail
A Why are you stuck on production cylinder heads when the market is filled with killer low-cost aluminum heads? I know you have already prepped your 492 or 186 castings. However, you're leaving a ton of power and torque on the table. You could drop them on eBay and use that money to move up to some real power.
Your camshaft specs are not really confusing. The only numbers that look somewhat suspect are the advertised numbers. One thing you don't know is the checking clearance for the advertised duration. Early production GM performance camshafts were checked at the first motion of tappet lift. Contemporary checking clearances fall somewhere between 0.004 and 0.006 inch of lift for hydraulic flat tappet camshafts, which lowers the advertised number quite a bit. If you used 0.006 inch of lift to check the advertised duration, you'd probably come in around a high 290-degree duration. Everything else sounds like a rather aggressive camshaft for street performance. With the relatively tight 108 LSA, you will have quite a bit of overlap, giving you a very aggressive idle, and the powerband will be pushed up significantly.
The rest of your street bruiser package seems to be quite solid. Your stock heads are going to need to be quite good to reach your horsepower bogey. If you went with a set of 190cc inlet-port performance aluminum heads, you would easily reach your 425 goal. It is your choice. Good luck with your Chevy II.
Tooooo Much Cam
Q I have a GM crate engine, PN 12499529, with 290 hp and 326 lb-ft of torque. I have had two of these engines; both required approximately 30 degrees of initial advance to run properly. The first engine was replaced under warranty by a GM dealer, but nobody could explain why this engine needed so much advance. Any idea? Thanks.
Ike ByersButler, PA