Now, which type of tray to run? When you add too many components (parts) in the crankcase space (pan), it can cause more problems than it's worth. Simple flat trays with louvers give the cylinders plenty of space to breathe from bay to bay and get the oil away from the rotating crankshaft. They also keep the oil in the pan where it needs to be, around the pick-up. Check out the Solid Louvered Windage Tray (PN 32100) from Milodon. This contoured tray helps scrape the oil off the rotating assembly and direct it back into the sump of the pan. Next, look at the Pan Baffle (PN 32500) to mount under the factory oil pump and prevent the oil from climbing up the back of the pan and into the rotating assembly during hard acceleration. Finally, pick up a set of the Adjustable Windage Tray Studs (PN 81150). These allow you to adjust the height of the tray in relationship to the crank and rods.
This will give you a solid foundation for your oiling system, prevent starvation from hard driving, and keep the unwanted oil in the crankcase space away from the crankshaft. Good luck with your homemade hairdryer.Source: milodon.com
Outside Help
Q: In your Apr. '09 column, reader Henry James asked about a brake pedal that goes to the floor in the parking lot. I had the exact same symptoms in my '55 Chevy for nearly two years until I hit the back bumper of a Toyota in a parking lot. I refused to drive the car until I found the problem.
I had installed a short rear axle and moved the springs into pockets in the frame. That shortened the outside dimension of the rear tire to the point that the fronts looked too wide. So I ordered some shortened tubular upper and lower control arms to tuck the fronts in 1 1/2 inches per side. Several years later when the car was complete, this brake problem came up. I did everything James did, plus I removed a new power brake booster and master cylinder and installed a master cylinder for manual disc brakes, thinking the ZZ3 crate motor was not developing enough vacuum at idle to supply the power booster. Same problem-and then the Toyota shut me down.
After much searching, I found the problem accidentally. With the car up on stands under the control arms to duplicate the suspension height, I turned the steering wheel hard left, like I was turning into a parking space, and bingo! The left front caliper hose bolt hit the outside of the frame and pushed the caliper out, which backed fluid up into the master cylinder and caused a gap between the brake pad and the rotor. Then when I applied the brakes, the pedal had to push the caliper piston back out and the pedal bottomed out before the pads made contact with the rotor. The next time I applied the brakes I had a full pedal. I checked the right side-same thing. The solution was to exchange the calipers for some with a hose outlet a little lower and more toward the rear so the boss wouldn't hit any more.
James might have a different front suspension but the same problem. Just check for caliper interference when the wheels are turned to be sure.
Your Q&A column is the best of any mag I read. Keep up the good work!
CJ Lane
via email
A: Your point is well taken. Anytime you've modified suspension and braking systems, checking for clearance at all ride heights is essential, even if you need to remove the springs from the suspension and articulate the suspension at all ride heights to ensure clearance of all components like brake lines, e-brake cables, driveshaft, and U-joints.
Thank you very much for your response. You've saved many readers from big trouble and possible injury. We all need to look out for one another.