Prindle
Q: I have owned my '78 Chevrolet Malibu since new. It still has the original 305ci engine in it for now, but I have a built 383 small-block to install later this spring. Also, I rebuilt a TH350 transmission over this past winter with all the good stuff and already installed this tranny in the vehicle with the 305 engine, mostly to make sure it functions properly. The good news is that there's no problem with the install, but I cannot get the column shifter to work with the TH350 trans. I want to keep the column shifter since the car is mint (only 40,000 original miles). The original TH200 seems to have a slightly different "rooster comb" for the detent positions than the TH350. I can get it to go into the L1, L2, D, and N positions, but R and P cause the column shifter to hang up and not allow it to get to Park. The detent in the trans will go to Park, but the lever will not, and this creates a problem removing the key from the lock. Is there a modification or part for the column that will get me where I need to go?
Jeff Stec
Wapwallopen, PA
A We've been around since dirt was invented but have never heard of a "rooster comb!" The OEMs call the transmission detents and the display in the dash the PRNDL, pronounced prindle. The TH350 and TH200 have the exact same spacing between gears. When you adjust your linkage, you should always adjust the Neutral position to be dead accurate. This will give you the best chance of reaching all ranges of the transmission. You didn't mention if you retained the factory cross-shaft from the framerail to the shifter shaft bracket. This cross-shaft and the arm lengths set the ratio between the column arm and the distance that the shifter shaft must rotate to achieve all ranges of the trans. This shaft may need some modification to connect directly to the TH350 because the trans is slightly wider than the TH200. You could find a cross-shaft in a wrecking yard from any G-body GM car with a TH250 or TH350. This should give you a direct fit.
Give your linkage another once-over. You're very close and should be able to adjust out your issue. Good luck with your engine swap, and have fun with all that newfound power!
Crank, Fuel, Add Spark
Q: I have a '74 Nova with a 406 that's topped off with an Edelbrock Vic Jr. aluminum heads and intake and roller rockers. and I'm pretty sure it's around 12.5:1 compression. It has quiet geardrive and a new Quick Fuel 750 carb with 74 primary and 84 secondary jets and a factory HEI distributor. I don't know anything more about the engine. I bought it from my dad, and he got the motor from a guy in the trading post. The cam is big and has a really rough idle, and I've been having trouble getting it timed. I've got it at about 36 degrees now because that's where a friend told me to start. My main problem is I keep getting gas in the oil. What would cause that? Do I need an MSD ignition? If so, what kind? I've also got a starter trouble-the mini torque starter gave out.
Love the magazine, and thanks for any help!
Joe Oatman
Cuba, IL
A: Fuel in the oil can be caused by many different problems. You didn't state whether you were running an electric fuel pump or a block-mounted, diaphragm-type manual pump. Very rarely have we seen the diaphragm in the pump fail and leak fuel into the crankcase. It's rare, but it can happen.
You need to completely troubleshoot your Quick Fuel carburetor; they're very high-quality carburetors, but you don't know who has had his hands on it. First, make sure you're getting clean fuel at the proper 6 psi of fuel pressure to the carb. Next, the float level must be adjusted to ensure that you're not leaking fuel over the main boosters. If the floats won't adjust properly, it's possible they've been damaged from handling and they are taking on fuel. Finally, if the carburetor is equipped with power valves, you must check to see that the diaphragms are not damaged from backfires. Overfueling the engine and getting enough fuel past the rings to have fuel in the oil is very damaging.